displaying posts 1 to 13 of 13

Author Subject: Battery charges fine, and the aa guy seemed to think it was fine
eliotrw

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Post #1
Basically it seems like it starts like a piece if s**t the next morning now? Takes three cranks for it to get going where as before it would just start on the first one?
Any ideas?

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 11:33
eliotrw

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Post #2
I think there must be some kind of electrical issue where its using power or something, But he tested that and it was a really low amount when off...

Could it be that the battery holds less charge than it used too? so it will only ever be enough for a few days now?

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 11:35
24seven

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Post #3
Have you tried trickle charging the battery? If it goes flat and you charge it by running the car for a longer period of time instead of slow charging it, they tend to weaken and not hold as much charge. If you can one weekend when you've nothing planned, let it go flat enough to turn on the auxiliaries (lights, dash, etc) but too flat to start, then let it slow charge overnight. Should help recover the battery somewhat if that's the problem.

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 14:13
eliotrw

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Post #4
Yeah thats the annoying thing i only seem to use it when i really need it.
I might just get a multimeter and check nothing is drawing charge from all the fuses. And if all ok just cut my losses and get a new battery, Its been on there at least all of my ownership any way.

I noticed it doesnt fill the battery box all the way?
Theres a bout a 2 cm gap length ways? Normal?

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 14:43
eliotrw

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Post #5
If this info helps, The car hasnt started the same since that cold spell about 3 weeks ago where it snowed heavy

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 14:43
eliotrw

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Post #6
another thing i just noticed is the pikey mother f**ker that previously owned it has run subwoofer power lines to the boot and left the red one plugged in and the black one is stil there but not connected at the battery end so f**k knows ehere the other end is Lovingly placed behind the dash i assume.
****

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 14:48
eliotrw

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Post #7
Obviously im glad its not connected, But still couldve taken it all out couldnt he!

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 14:49
owain

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Post #8
New battery, always new battery. Get someone to do a proper load test on it, I have a big £60 Machine Mart thing that actually puts a couple of hundred amps across the battery and measures the voltage, there is a massive difference between a knackered battery charging to 12v (easy) and a knackered battery starting a car, at which point it'll drop down to about two volts.

The multimeter test is good for checking batteries that won't get to 12v or for checking your alternator, but is no good for real-world tests on batteries.

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 15:00
24seven

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Post #9
I'm sure a proper battery fills the battery box, so it may be that you've got one meant for an 8v XU engine'd car or a lower spec 306 in there. My car has one from a 205 and it's a little sluggish to turn over to begin with but always fires on the 2nd or 3rd turn.

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Ph1 306 GTi 6 | RX8 231 S1 | YBR 125 Cafe Racer | MT-03 660
Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 19:05
eliotrw

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Post #10
Cool I think its likely that ill get another

However.. I just looked over the paper work he gave me, He wrote down that there was a 0.5v drain when the ignition is off ( i couldnt understand a work he said tbh so didnt realise until now) so 0.5v. Worth worrying about?

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Posted 3rd Mar 2013 at 22:11
owain

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Post #11
Best bet is to disconnect the battery, leave the car for as long as you can over a weekend or whatever, then connect it back up and start the car. If it still doesn't start, you know it's the battery. If it does, there's probably drain somewhere.

My battery was about 2" short of the battery box, was always absolutely fine. Some designs vary, as long as it's the right capacity the physical size shouldn't matter.

The previous owner had rectified this by stuffing an old tea towel down the side of the box, either that or it was a factory extra.

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Posted 4th Mar 2013 at 08:09
eliotrw

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Post #12
I will try the above and we'll see i guess
I think you must have the rare Phase 4!
Was it a peugeot branded tea towel?

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Posted 4th Mar 2013 at 10:05
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #13
It's not so much the voltage drain as the current drain that you need to be concerned with. Yes

You need to measure using an ammeter to see what kind of (if any) drain that you have. Once you have determined this, then you can look and find the capacity of your battery in aH, and then you can work out how long it is going to take for the drain to flatten your charged battery. Once you've determined that it is indeed the drain which is causing the the starting issues, then you need to go about finding the problem.

Again, a good starting point would be using the ammeter on ALL of the fuses in the fusebox and seeing which one(s) is/are drawing the same current you're losing at the battery and then using the FAQ on here, you should be able to find which items that fuse runs and go searching at the destination to find the cause of the current draw. Smile

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Posted 4th Mar 2013 at 10:09

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