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Author Subject: Suspension Set Up
hazz

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Location: Chelmsford

Registered: 24 Jan 2011

Posts: 355

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Post #1
Well I've been looking at quite a few threads trying to choose the best set up for Fast road use.

I have read that there inst much point putting coilovers on if its not going on the track ?

So if that is correct what is a good pair of Shocks and springs to put on. Its at a standard height at the moment and would like it a little bit lower. (nothing stupid) So what kind of drops has everyone else done for road use ?

And for the rear I was thinking of, while I was getting it adjusted to match the front, to get the bushes done too with either standard or uprated bushes ? Can you feel the difference with uprated ones ? Also while that is going on I have heard that a Uprated ARB has a lot of improvement on the handling. Ive also read up on these to but not quite sure what one to go for. Also would it be worth changing the rear dampeners/shocks too ?

Thankyou in advance !

Cheers Harry Thumbs up

________________________________________

Moonstone 1.4... Written off!

Astor 6... SOLD !

New owner of a Moonstone 6 !
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 17:27
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #2
What is your budget?

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 17:44
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hazz

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Location: Chelmsford

Registered: 24 Jan 2011

Posts: 355

Status: Offline
Post #3
Im really not sure how much it all costs but say £500 ?

________________________________________

Moonstone 1.4... Written off!

Astor 6... SOLD !

New owner of a Moonstone 6 !
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 17:50
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline
Post #4
30mm drop is what you need, front and rear. Buy new front springs if you can as they are stressed and damaged by corrosion (water trapped behind cracked powder coat rots them) but second hand torsion bars and ARBs are fine as long as the threads are fine and the splines are'nt mushroomed from twats beating them with hammers to remove them.

Look for 306 estate 21mm torsion bars for the rear and Eibach sportline 30mm lowering springs for the front.

Try and find a hybrid ARB, they help a lot.

Bilstein 205 tarmac rear dampers are highly regarded for the rear, and Bilstein B8s are good upfront, failing that good OEM front dampers work well with Eibachs.

Rear mounts, new OEM or solids are the way to go, personal preference is for solids but the jury is out on the merits on a road car.

Finally, to maximise the contact patch when cornering you need to be looking for some more negative camber either via machined hubs or adjustable topmounts.

Now, that little lot is going to weigh in at substantially more than £500 even if you get lucky with second hand stuff. You may be best buying a car with this stuff done or not bothering at all, but of the mods listed above, I'd say springs, bars and ARB are the things to get. Assuming your current dampers are OEM and in good order then the grip will be improved, but, things like this should really be done wholistically and I would'nt really reccommend doing it by halves. Save and do the lot, or leave it be.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 18:31
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eliotrw

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Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

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Post #5
I think thats a /thread tbh.

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Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 18:33
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline
Post #6
Check this out...

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=153060&page=1

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 18:41
Profile
eliotrw

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Location: Southwark

Registered: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 4,864

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Post #7
With regards to TBs fyi 21mm ones work out a tenner cheaper from peugeot direct.
But you are on a winner for any of the bigger sizes with that group buy or the hybrid bars
Would be interesting to try 21.5 or 22mm bars

________________________________________

Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 18:49
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adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

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Post #8
I wouldn't be too hung up on increasing the rear bar size too much.

Eibach / bilsteins
20-30mm drop on rear
New beam mounts (get good standard for road), wishbone bushes and front drop links
Hybrid rear arb

What tyres and tyre size are on it?

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 21:33
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hazz

Regular

Location: Chelmsford

Registered: 24 Jan 2011

Posts: 355

Status: Offline
Post #9
daveyboy wrote:
30mm drop is what you need, front and rear. Buy new front springs if you can as they are stressed and damaged by corrosion (water trapped behind cracked powder coat rots them) but second hand torsion bars and ARBs are fine as long as the threads are fine and the splines are'nt mushroomed from twats beating them with hammers to remove them.

Look for 306 estate 21mm torsion bars for the rear and Eibach sportline 30mm lowering springs for the front.

Try and find a hybrid ARB, they help a lot.

Bilstein 205 tarmac rear dampers are highly regarded for the rear, and Bilstein B8s are good upfront, failing that good OEM front dampers work well with Eibachs.

Rear mounts, new OEM or solids are the way to go, personal preference is for solids but the jury is out on the merits on a road car.

Finally, to maximise the contact patch when cornering you need to be looking for some more negative camber either via machined hubs or adjustable topmounts.

Now, that little lot is going to weigh in at substantially more than £500 even if you get lucky with second hand stuff. You may be best buying a car with this stuff done or not bothering at all, but of the mods listed above, I'd say springs, bars and ARB are the things to get. Assuming your current dampers are OEM and in good order then the grip will be improved, but, things like this should really be done wholistically and I would'nt really reccommend doing it by halves. Save and do the lot, or leave it be.


Wow !
Thank you very much for the advise mate i will take it all on board !
I think it has Pug front Pug Dampers on the front that are only 2 years old, so i might keep them on and get some Eibach springs.
For the rear i will try to find a good second hand ARB or Get one made from that link you sent.
Cant you get adjustable top mounts for standard dampers ?
For the Rear I will get some Soild rear bushes to go along with the Bilstein 205 tarmac rear dampers (see how much they are first)
Can i just ask What difference does a bigger torsion bar do ? i under stand the anti roll bar, but not to sure on the torsion?
I've got a bit of money saved away so ill save a bit more and do it all at once !
Thank you for your help mate !

________________________________________

Moonstone 1.4... Written off!

Astor 6... SOLD !

New owner of a Moonstone 6 !
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 21:47
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hazz

Regular

Location: Chelmsford

Registered: 24 Jan 2011

Posts: 355

Status: Offline
Post #10
adam b wrote:
I wouldn't be too hung up on increasing the rear bar size too much.

Eibach / bilsteins
20-30mm drop on rear
New beam mounts (get good standard for road), wishbone bushes and front drop links
Hybrid rear arb

What tyres and tyre size are on it?


Yep ill proberly go with Eibach's for the front.
Wishbone bushes i might try and stretch to the roller baring ones.
For the back ill go with Bilstein 205 tarmac rear dampers, new bushes and a bigger ARB

As for Tyres I have Yokohama parada spec 2 195/50/15 All round Smile

________________________________________

Moonstone 1.4... Written off!

Astor 6... SOLD !

New owner of a Moonstone 6 !
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 21:52
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline
Post #11
The rear suspension uses torsion bars attached to the trailing arms instead of coil springs. Thicker torsion bars resist twisting more in the same wag that heavier springs resist compression more, do you want thicker torsion bars at the rear to balance out the stiffer springs you intend to fit at the front.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 23:03
Profile
Niall

Seasoned Pro

Location: Epsom

Registered: 06 Jun 2012

Posts: 1,941

Status: Offline
Post #12
adam b wrote:
I wouldn't be too hung up on increasing the rear bar size too much.

Eibach / bilsteins
20-30mm drop on rear
New beam mounts (get good standard for road), wishbone bushes and front drop links
Hybrid rear arb

What tyres and tyre size are on it?


Agreed. ive got 22.5mm bars on mine from the previous buy and admittedly, they are under damped at the moment but it actually seems to be less grippy now round corners than it was before!
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 23:05
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hazz

Regular

Location: Chelmsford

Registered: 24 Jan 2011

Posts: 355

Status: Offline
Post #13
Ahh okay It makes sense now !
Erm I suppose I should match them to the front then yes !
Proberly best that it is all balanced !

________________________________________

Moonstone 1.4... Written off!

Astor 6... SOLD !

New owner of a Moonstone 6 !
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 23:06
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adam b

Seasoned Pro

Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

Posts: 12,828

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Post #14
I'm not going for stiffer rear bars yet in the blaze. There is now so little weight in the rear I'm not sure it needs it!

________________________________________

Nothing to see here
Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 11:09
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline
Post #15
adam b wrote:
I'm not going for stiffer rear bars yet in the blaze. There is now so little weight in the rear I'm not sure it needs it!


Good point, stripped cars don't need much stiffer bars or dampers really.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 11:12
Profile
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