Track work requires 3-3.5 degrees neg camber front and back. Plus a little toe in at the rear for stability. If you could easily add and remove camber then you could play and get what you want at any given time. (easy to do on the front, not so easy on the back with a beam setup) ideally you want as much camber as you can get without hampering traction in acceleration or braking. The problem is that road miles will quickly eat the shoulder of tyres set with aggressive camber angles as effectively the car will be running and scrubbing away on the shoulders of the tyre until loaded up thru weight transfer of cornering etc where more of the tyres contact area will be squashed I to the Tarmac. I'd guess that if you do primarily road then a halfway house setting would be 1.5 deg front/rear with a little more castor angle at the front too. (Standard is 1 degree neg on the rear anyway, assuming a worn beam isn't giving you more of course)

It's worth bearing in mind however that lift off oversteer characteristics will be exaggerated by increasing the camber at the rear. Fine when roll causes the outside rear tyre is loaded up during steady state cornering or under acceleration but lift off suddenly and the reduced contact patch will break away even more suddenly and will stop sliding more aggressively when you catch the slide so your adding and removing of corrective lock will have to be accurately measured and skilfully applied.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

Depends on the tyres you want to run

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