Hi you will need a few spanners and a wind back tool. you wont need to bleed the brakes either. just make sure when you wind the calliper back you have got the brake fluid cap off on your m/c and to readjust your handbrake.

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Brakes can be a bit daunting. There is a good brake FAQ.
It is worth giving the brakes a service every time you change the pads and discs. It is not too difficult but attention to detail makes a difference.

I would use a carjack from the rear of the car under the lower damper bolt and place axle stands under both sills leaving the jack inplace for safety. Chock up the wheels and leave in gear. You can never be too careful when working under and around a car.

Take care removing the pads retaining clip - it pings out!
Millers Red Rubber grease (1000 degree boiling point) is excellent for greasing up all the rubber boot seals for the slide pins. Don't forget to grease the caliper piston seal (not sure if this is the right term).
A good quality Copper grease for a slither around the inside of the hub surface. Halfords copper grease is really poor quality.
You might need a star/torx? socket to remove the disc retaining screw/s
Halfords socket set for £99 is a great buy.
An extension bar makes wheel removal easy with less damage to wheel bolt threads.
If your hubs are old then some wire wool on the face cleans up the rust.
Likewise a thread cleaning tool also very useful.
Replace any broken or damaged rubber seals.
Latex gloves quite handy too

I would recommend bleeding the brake fluid which usually degrades after a couple of years. Halfords do a couple of good kits. Use a good quality brake fluid. Look for a high wet boiling point. Many cheap ones quote a dry boiling point. Take care undoing bleed nipples. They can snap.

If you got uprated brakes or hilly B roads I would recommend Castrol React SRF (You need to flush system with a cheaper Castrol React performance to flush out your old fluid before SRF).

I had a wee look, the disc is truly knackered. Scored deeply and making a god awful racket.

I wanted to have a look at the pads but the retaining bar that holds the pads in place (the one with the spring clip that runs horizontally behind the pads) was seemingly welded in tight unlike the picture in the haynes manual which said it should just pull out. I've removed the clip, gave it a battering with a hammer but it's stuck fast. Is there something I'm missing?

hammering it out the right way? use a punch or a small chisel

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

This is the most thorough explanation i have ever seen from the mighty welsh pugo, keep it coming

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''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6?

I will still need to get the old one out to put the new one in!

Will give it a good battering next time I get it up. OO-ER!