I'm just looking at the wiring diagrams for the cut off switch and I pretty much understand it but I have a few questions if anybody can explain?

do you only use the battery power cable that goes to the starter motor for the switch and keep the other that goes to the ecu eg joined straight to the positive or do I wire both the connections On the battery to the kill switch to shutdown the whole electrics?

I havnt looked at the alternator for a while and have a brain like a cullinder but which is the switch wire for the alternator and do I even need this as another diagram seems to show its just linked to bigger connection that the
Thick Starter motor wire joins to?

and which wire is the ignition switch is it the thick red
One? the wires I need to wire to the smaller terminals as in the diagram:


I guess the best place for me to chop the ignition swicth wire would be in the steering column/cowling?

Does this make sense?

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

http://www.holden.co.uk/productimagesWD/020_011.jpg

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

I thought reading a Few Diagrams that it's just a jump wire from the positive/starter wire that goes to the resistor?
Not a alternator switch feed?

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

Check out my thread for details of how I did mine, but essentially the switch completely cuts off the single connection from the battery to everything, leaving nothing at all powered, which is what you want. In the event that you've rolled or caught fire, you want to have no sparks or electricity anywhere near the engine.

Is also has the all-important ignition cut-off and earth resistor to save your alternator. I've tested it plenty of times and it cuts out perfectly and the alternator is fine.

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Battery +ve to switch then the Switch to the main load as it would normally do from the battery, The ignition cut used to be on the coil and I think most wiring diag still show this but just take the switched live to the ECU relay which does the same job or better as it kills fuel pump & Ignition.
The resistor is needed, I ditch the supplied one and use a Bolt on type which can be bought from RS etc

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It wouldn't matter no, but you'd have to obviously run a separate wire from the switch into the fuse box, but as long as you have half-decent wire its resistance over a few feet will be absolutely negligible. However there seems little point tbh, as it just needs to go from the switch to the nearest bit of metal.

And yes, it just goes to earth.

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Yes one goes to the starter, the other to the fuses. Check out this page which shows what I did, I kept the two cables separate and just extended their connection to the battery.

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Oh I dunno, I think on the P1 it had two separate wires to the fusebox or something, I didn't want to bother figuring out how it all worked so I just extended the connection between them all and the battery so I couldn't get it wrong.

Honestly don't know about the ampage, I just bought the bigger stuff so I'd never have to worry about it, makes very little difference cost- or weight-wise.

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Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.

Am I better off taking the switched live to the ecu from behind the steering cowling(if possible) or does it have to be taken from somewhere around the relay behind the battery?
Thanks Andy

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

yeah, i cut one of the feeds which in turn stopped the car sparking and killed it immediately. i just tested the wires going to it at ignition etc to see how it was working and found a feed that way

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