Post #1
I see this seems to be a good one.How much would i need for the car? as i don;t wanna buy too much at first
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A red rallye in progress!
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displaying posts 1 to 11 of 11
| Author | Subject: G3 compound stuff |
 barnettjd77
Regular  Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
How much would i need for the car? as i don;t wanna buy too much at first |
 Posted 17th May 2012 at 21:55
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dan86
Senior User  Location: Bideford Registered: 10 May 2009 Posts: 548 Status: Offline |
Post #2
This is amazing stuff. It cuts really fast as it's quite course. I buy the liquid compound in a bottle as it's much easier to use than the paste. The bottle I have is either 1l or 1.5l i'm not quite sure which. I've compounded two cars with it and only used a quarter of it. I'm quite sparing with it so it goes a long way. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 17th May 2012 at 22:22
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #3
If it's course don;t it scratch the car?  Ah right i shall get a small one then and see what it is like, i see someone added a pic on the facefu*k page and looks gleeming  ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 17th May 2012 at 22:25
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #4
Go into halfords today to buy some and they are on offer. 3 for 2 so got them andI shall see what they are like tomorrow... weather dependent. ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 20:45
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ryangti6
Seasoned Pro  Location: Pontypool Registered: 01 Sep 2006 Posts: 1,839 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Tbh If you are using it by hand I find it does leave scratches/swirls which is why ideally you want to be doing a 3 stage polish with something as coarse as G3 Imo.I would of just used G10 if going for Farecla. I use auto smart Evo renovating compound at the moment which is equivilant to G10 and find a quick clay, go over with the compound and then a polish up gets a very, very good finish by hand. ________________________________________ Ryan |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 21:03
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #6
Ah right i have 3 of the 4 stage thing. the g3 stuff, first is the cleaner then the the scratch remover adn then the super resin polish... is that what you mean? new to all this as before i used autoglym but thought i would try something different for a change.  ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 21:06
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ryangti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Pontypool Registered: 01 Sep 2006 Posts: 1,839 Status: Offline |
Post #7
That's not what I meant really, I should of said 3 stage compounding to be clearer.By 3 stage I meant you will need a stage '2' medium cut compound like G6 or G10 to remove the marks that G3 leaves before you apply your finsihing polish like super resin. You may find the scratch remover you have will be coarse enough to do that job though. Rather than the paint cleaner though which I personally think does bugger all a wet cloth wouldn't if you mean the meguiars stuff, use a clay bar before compounding. It makes removing the compound much easier and will make sure you have got a nice clean surface to work with. ________________________________________ Ryan |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 21:26
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #8
ah i see sorry didnt quite get it. I don;t have the paint cleaner one so not wasting time on that i guess i did look at the clay bar thing but thought WTF is that ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 21:40
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dan86
Senior User Location: Bideford Registered: 10 May 2009 Posts: 548 Status: Offline |
Post #9
If you do a small section at a time with a small amount of G3 until it starts to go dry, then rejuvenate it with some water mist from a Mr muscle squirty bottle and go over it again it doesn't leave any scratches.It seems that the coarse particles almost break down to a finer abrasive and when mixed with water it makes G10. The key is not to use too much as you just end up with a mess that's difficult to clean up and don't get it on porous plastics like the door mirrors as it kind of stains. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 18th May 2012 at 22:13
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #10
Cheers for the tips ryan and dan. I shall give this a go today.Hopefully the result will be good and not anymore scratched than it is already ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 19th May 2012 at 09:53
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barnettjd77
Regular Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #11
Bit of an old thread bump.I think the scratch remover stuff is complete bollo*ks And I went and bought some Autoglym intensive tar remover... now that stuff is the bee's knees ________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 1st Jul 2012 at 20:41
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