I am not electrically minded as i am a farmer not a bloody electrician ha!

I am a tad confused of how you wire the amp to the speakers.. i have pioneer 6x9's and the door speakers, with atm a shi*e vibe sub incl amp, how do i go about wiring them all up?
i have been told it makes a hell of a difference to the quality

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A red rallye in progress!

If you are asking how to power the speakers and the sub off 1 amp you would need a 5 channel amp with one of the channels powering the sub or 2 you would need one 4 channel for the speakers and a 1 channel for the sub unless it is a active one .

haha yeah its an active sub with the amp attatched, i have it all wired to headunit ect and it is working. The only bit i am unsure on is to wire the amp to the speakers, but by what chris said i will sell that vibe one and get a 5 channel amp before i go any further

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A red rallye in progress!

Some amps will pick up a signal from the original speaker cable, but it is better to use the rca outputs from the back of the head unit, and use an rca lead to your amp. You will also need a power 12v cable to your amp from the battery and an earth lead for it.

there's also loads of videos on youtube http://youtu.be/_kqVkn1PbN8

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definitely not the way it should be used and not the safest way to do it either

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

Nah, keep the vibe one together with the sub and just get an extra 4channel for the speakers.

(i still happen to have one for sale if you're interested and several 2-channel amps too -> click the link in my signature)


If the +12v lead you're currently using is thick enough (lets say 4awg or thicker) you can split it up with something like this (and keep everything safe and fused)


You can use something alike (without the fuses) for the ground (-12v):



5/6 channels amps are mostly very expensive
(I also have a 6channel one laying around and for sale, but i think it needs to get checked (it's a tad old))


But since you've already got an amp for the sub i'd just add a 4channel
(or even just a 2channel for the front speakers, the rears are less important)

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

I have 1 power lead from the batt to the vibe power cap then 2 my amps. This is what I found wen I was reserching it for me from a online manual awile ago

1. you don't need a distribution block for one or two amps unless the amp won't except the large gauge wire.
2. run the power wire from the under the hood to the + input of the cap(don't connect the fuse)
3. run the power wire from the + out to the amp/s or distribution block.

I can assure you, it's a bad manual then.
That is just bad advice

The way you are using it you could as well just use an ordinary bolt to fix both amps to.

An ordinary cap should only be placed before 1 amp, preferably the one that has the biggest powerdrain-peaks, being the sub-amp mostly. It's meant to release current very fast (way faster than a conventional battery) and thus absorb the drain peaks. (mostly solving issues like headlights dimming with the bass etc)

You ALWAYS need a distribution block for MORE than 1 amp as every amp needs to be fused separately (and with the appropriate fuse)
If you are using a cap, this should be placed in between the distribution block and the amp.

Also, seeing that you are using a cap, I assume you charged it first? before installing it all? (you know using a simple testbulb, connected in series with the +? Because if you didn't, you might as well throw it away as its probably of no use anymore /broken)


The ground however, doesn't NEED a distribution block, as long as all grounds are fitted to the same point of the chassis. Though I prefer to use one because it's just easier/neater.

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

They do have disadvantages, but sound wise (and not looking at professional SQ-setups) they are fine really.

It's just so that rca's mostly have filtering at the HU, so easier to adjust settings 'on the fly', while with highlvl inputs you'll be mostly messing around on the amp itself.

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

Yes off course I use a test light as it was the simplest way to charge the capacitor tho I have herd of ppl using a Resistor. All I had to do was with the power and ground of the test light stick them in-line where your fuse used to be.wile Hold the test light in place of the fuse until the light bulb turns off meaning the voltage went from 12V to 0V and the capacitor is charged.
On the vibe site :The built in digital voltage display constantly and accurately displays the systems DC voltage. A power distribution block is built into the top of the capacitor to allow easy wiring into the system amplifiers may be wired directly to the capacitors distribution block. As I'm not that gd at explaing tho it might help what iv bin on a about.

chris1987 has attached the following image:

all the ones I sell are decent

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

Here are a few (still need to put up others too)

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=132860
I can mail the manuals if desired.

Choice would be depending on your current speakers. If you still have standard speakers i'd just upgrade the fronts (as in: get a decent component set), amp up those and cba about the rears. A 2.6x would suffice for that imo.

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

either side actually.

The use of it (or not use) depends on install/situation.
When you have decent wiring/battery but using heavy amps that draw a lot of current, i would use one to take stress of the system/battery.

If you give me the choice: decent wiring OR a cap? Decent wiring all the way, it's the first step of decent setup.

I rarely use caps in any of the installs I've made. I'm more fond of using an uprated battery up front (gel/half-track) or putting an extra in the rear. This is only for the heavy kind of install.
I am going to use cap myself now though, already having decent cabling and a good battery up front I still notice the system suffering from peaks being drawn by the subamp (pushing about 1.3kw rms mind )

But here on the forum, I can't see many other cars needing one...

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Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi