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Author Subject: Sub and Amp Fitting
notoriouslor

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Location: Tranent

Registered: 02 May 2011

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Post #1
How easy is this to do? Or is there anyone in the Edinburgh/East Lothian area that can do it?
What kind of cost am I looking at for getting someone else to fit it for me?
Posted 20th Mar 2012 at 21:22
footah212

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Location: Paisley

Registered: 16 Sep 2010

Posts: 861

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Post #2
It's not really that hard to do.

You will need to run the the line out cable from the head unit to the amp and a power cable from the battery to the amp. Then earth the amp to a point in the boot floor.

Try to keep the line out cable and power cable as far apart as possible.

You may have to remove the passenger seat to make lifting the carpet easier.

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi6

PS3 - Black Ops 2

Engine crane for hire Renfrewshire
Posted 20th Mar 2012 at 21:30
notoriouslor

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Post #3
Anyone close to east lothian that can do this on the cheap then as I dont think I'm confident enough to do this myself?
Posted 21st Mar 2012 at 16:59
Wongy

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 05 Mar 2012

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Post #4
Its really easy, best way to learn is do it yourself.
Just watch where it leads you, you might get a tad involved and end up with damaged hearing, like me!

________________________________________

1999 Gaystone blue '6,
1990 sierra cosworth 4x2
Posted 21st Mar 2012 at 19:24
notoriouslor

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Post #5
Yeah, I'm slowly coming round to the idea but I've not really the tools to be drilling holes and would not know where to start
Posted 21st Mar 2012 at 21:13
woody.

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Location: London

Registered: 18 May 2009

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Post #6
It's really not very hard to do:

1. Route power cable from battery down the passenger side sill of the car, you don't need to take the passenger seat out for this (I have 4 gauge wire and it's fine) You can either drill through where the top glovebox/airbag is or find the existing bung for the A/C and drill through that. Make sure if you're drilling through metal that you use a rubber grommet so the metal of the bodywork doesn't cut the power lead. I also used a bit of silicon sealant around the hole to stop any water getting in.

You will be able to route the cable to the battery and cable tie it out the way of any engine components. You will need a fuse just after the connection to the battery, no more than 1metre away, this can be mounted somewhere or just cable tied out the way.

2. Run a set of RCA leads from the centre console (where the back of the head unit is down and next to the gearstick). Follow it down and you'll be able to push the leads toward the back seats (on top of the "lump" where the exhaust tunnel is). You can then push them to under the rear bench and into the boot.

OR

Run the RCA leads from the back of the head unit and underneath the fusebox in the drivers footwell. You can then run the leads down the sill to the boot just like you did with the power cable.

3. You will need a 12v feed (normally a thin blue wire) from the head unit to the amp to tell it when to turn on. I used electrical tape and attached it to the RCA lead as that's the easiest way.

4. Make a ground lead (the same gauge as your power lead) and find a point to bolt it to bare metal. I drilled a hole underneath the rear bench where I could get my hand either side of the metal. Sanded the paint back to bare metal and used a nut and bolt to secure it. Be careful not to drill into the petrol tank!!! (If you have any sense of direction you'll find a nice spot well away from the tank!)

5. Last of all is to wire it all up. Make sure the last thing you do is put the fuse in, last piece of the puzzle.


It's really very easy to do, and you'll wonder why you even considered paying good money for someone else to do it.

Any questions just ask me and I'll be happy to help Smile
Posted 22nd Mar 2012 at 20:19
notoriouslor

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Post #7
Cheers mate, I'll be following this to the letter, I've ordered a fitting kit so hopefully it's here tomorrow so I can get started on it as soon as.
Posted 22nd Mar 2012 at 20:47
dragoon

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Location: Ghent - Belgium

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Post #8
notoriouslor wrote:
Yeah, I'm slowly coming round to the idea but I've not really the tools to be drilling holes and would not know where to start


no need to drill anything mate

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 19:05
notoriouslor

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Post #9
dragoon wrote:
notoriouslor wrote:
Yeah, I'm slowly coming round to the idea but I've not really the tools to be drilling holes and would not know where to start


no need to drill anything mate


Enlighten me? Since I've not started this yet, having problems with my icv
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 19:43
Wongy

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 05 Mar 2012

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Post #10
I'd like to know too, i couldn't find anywhere to get a wire in without drilling on my hdi.

________________________________________

1999 Gaystone blue '6,
1990 sierra cosworth 4x2
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 19:45
dragoon

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Post #11
I'll post some info asap, i'll get some pics too, and as I'm running quite a lot of wiring (several amps and stuff) you should have no issues at all.

Mind that my car is LHD not RHD

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 21:00
notoriouslor

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Post #12
dragoon wrote:
Mind that my car is LHD not RHD


I'll just work using a mirror then, that would be great though mate as I'm very new at this kind of thing
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 21:18
dragoon

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Post #13
I wouldnt be too sure about that, the battery is on the same side, but I'm not sure which holes are used and which not, you'll just have to check.

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 22:13
ballardpaul

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Location: Croydon

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Post #14
I wouldnt drill for the ground mate, just screw it to the back seat bolts that are used to hold them to the car.

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi 6 (Standard) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged China GTi 6 (249.8 BHP) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged Diablo GTi 6 (443 BHP)Sold
Nissan 350Z (300 BHP)
Posted 25th Mar 2012 at 22:26
woody.

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Registered: 18 May 2009

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Post #15
ballardpaul wrote:
I wouldnt drill for the ground mate, just screw it to the back seat bolts that are used to hold them to the car.


I've heard this causes problems if you run more than one amp (I know it did with mine), the majority of problems that arise with ICE is poor ground points.

If you just make sure the ground point is bare metal to chassis you should be ok Smile
Posted 26th Mar 2012 at 19:39
woody.

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Post #16
Wongy wrote:
I'd like to know too, i couldn't find anywhere to get a wire in without drilling on my hdi.


On my install in my old 1.4 (two amps, subadub, amped front components, sound deadening, tweeters in a-pillars) I drilled from a hole behind the glovebox removing a little OEM sound deadening first. But on my 6 I found a handy rubber bung and forced a BBQ skewer through and gradually made the hole bigger. Then just fed the power cable through there.
Posted 26th Mar 2012 at 19:47
dragoon

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Post #17
woody. wrote:
ballardpaul wrote:
I wouldnt drill for the ground mate, just screw it to the back seat bolts that are used to hold them to the car.


I've heard this causes problems if you run more than one amp (I know it did with mine)


well, no, its a good spot, but you have to keep in mind other things when going for a multi-amp system.

i'll have pics tomorow Wink

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 26th Mar 2012 at 21:35
dragoon

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Post #18

The powerlead i'm using is 35mm², so 2awg/gauge?
This made it a hard job, but anything up to 25mm² (4awg) is a piece of cake.





________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 27th Mar 2012 at 22:04
notoriouslor

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Post #19
Sorry mate, I'm a bit hopeless when it comes to these sort of things and I can't really make head nor tail of your photos? Any chance you can elaborate on them?
Cheers
Stuart
Posted 27th Mar 2012 at 22:52
dragoon

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Post #20
i'll make some overview pics and draw on them Smile

the thing you see here is where the powercable enters the car (the cable is black ribbed sleeve-thingie for protection.



Lets start at the battery.
Short piece (+-25cm, so 10"?) going to the fuseholder (mine is not located at an ideal spot, but due to the size of that thing i havent found a better option; you will probably have a smaller one, which will me more easy to place somewhere else)

From there, the cable goes into the ribbed sleeve thing, under the battery/ecu, I recommend using such a protective sleeve, just in case it starts rubbing against something and breaks the insulation (= shortcircuit).
Behind the ECU it goes up, and right into the corner next to the strut. (in my case, between strut and brake-cylinder)
In all the 306's I've owned & worked on there is/was a rubber grommet in that corner.
Take it out, make a hole in it, just big enough to put the cable through (2awg is the max size you can feed through it), and put the grommet back in, then start putting the cable in.
Cable comes out high in the dashboard (you'll have to shove your arm up there)

IN:
OUT:
the metal you see is part of my pedals (LHD-car, remember?)

(old pics tho', without the sleeve/grommet, but this is 0awg)


Is this clear enough? (before I continue with the easier last part Smile )

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 27th Mar 2012 at 23:28
warner

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Location: Watford

Registered: 10 Feb 2011

Posts: 52

Status: Offline

Post #21
Keep it coming Dragoon :-) I'd like to see more as I have a multi amp setup that I want to sort as the wiring is s**t.

________________________________________

'96 GTI-6 daily
'93 180SX drifter

20 Febuary 1997 - Thursday's car..has far to go? Wink
Posted 27th Mar 2012 at 23:38
dragoon

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Registered: 30 Dec 2008

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Post #22
Multi-amp setups require much more work and details to look after compared to single amp setups.
Very depending on specs and sorts too. (a bit hard to do a complete write-up for such things)
But I'll gladly help out with more specific questions.


More on the cable routing when i get an overview pics to draw on where the cable continous to run Smile
(thursday maybe)

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 27th Mar 2012 at 23:54
notoriouslor

Regular

Location: Tranent

Registered: 02 May 2011

Posts: 234

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Post #23
Got the power cable through the place you said, now just need to run it along somewhere?
Posted 28th Mar 2012 at 19:06
ballardpaul

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Location: Croydon

Registered: 22 Jul 2008

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Post #24
Ha never noticed that hole after I've just drilled a hole yesterday!

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi 6 (Standard) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged China GTi 6 (249.8 BHP) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged Diablo GTi 6 (443 BHP)Sold
Nissan 350Z (300 BHP)
Posted 28th Mar 2012 at 19:44
dragoon

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Location: Ghent - Belgium

Registered: 30 Dec 2008

Posts: 1,071

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Post #25
notoriouslor wrote:
Got the power cable through the place you said, now just need to run it along somewhere?


kept the rubber grommet I hope?




well, here some quick and badly drawn pics:
(nvm the cable mess, I'm working on the whole install so thats why...)

RED: +12v (power)
TEAL: -12v (ground)
BLACK: bassremote-cable (if you have one)
BLUE: speakerwiring (if amping the speakers)

The RCA / phone-leads + REMOTE (+12v signalcable) go on the opposite side of the power cable.
You can easily put then under the side of the carpet (like the speakerwire -blue- ), but ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CAR! (in my case: +12v: driverside phono: passengerside)






Ask away if I'm not clear enough or if there are any doubts. (got the whole layout for a 106 too if anyone wants that, quite similar tho', see here for extra pics: http://peugeotforum.be/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8416 )

________________________________________

Team Wheelwhore
Team Limited Edition

Astor 306 Francorchamps RIP
Virtual Blue 208 GTi

quote:
I Love this place. So many illiterate deluded fool's acting 'ard . . . and so many literate intelligent people to rip them apart and knock them back down again . . . ahh Cool
Posted 29th Mar 2012 at 19:33

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