405gti6
Post #1
So I got a little bit tired with my 405... Figured out I wanted some more power in my GTX. Was in the begining just going to put in a Mi16 ph1 engine, but ended up going a little bit outside the box instead. Was offered a 60k miles GTI6 engine without a lot of stuff such as ECU, manifold lots of tubes, and flywheel etc. Was a little skeptical as I couldnt really dig up any info on this conversion... But in the end decided it had to be tried at least.First problem was that the GTI6 box sticks about 4cm outside the chassis leg and hits the ABR drop links... So a Mi16 ph2 box was bought. It could probably be modified to accept the 6 box though...
Second problem is that the exhaust spaghetti hits the gear selector shaft and has got 1mm clearance to ARB... So that needs to be modified by cutting the lowest section and reweld further up, and the flange has to be cut off and the tubing needs to be extended about 2cm further down the tunnel and flange rewelded. Note: Tilting engine does not rectify the problem at all. The manifold itself does not hit the firewall or tunnel at all. The exhaust system is same diameter as GTI6 (2,25") and the flanges are the same style and mate fine, but the downpipe will have to be shortened some to not hit the ground... If you dont want to chop the spaghetti manifold you can use a exhaust manifold from a XU10J4R as that will clear everything and also mate perfectly to the original downpipe.
If you want to keep PAS you need to get custom hoses made up. I got mine made at a dealer in Norway named Tess. The high pressure hose is pretty expensive to have made as the tubing and one-way valve are quite expensive...
You can use the original 405 cooling circuit by blocking off the two extra overflow/bypass pipes to the radiator and putting in a Spoox aluminium push-on adaptor. However this only works if you remove the heat exchanger on the block. I did this and bought the short loose threads that screws into the block from main dealer. If temperatures rises too much theres more than enough room to fit a air cooler for the oil.
The engine loom is pretty straight forward as all the wire numbers are the same. Colors is not though. Some wires is unused on both components here. E.g the car has wires for "water in fuel" lamp and "glow plug light". 306 and 405 shares the same multiplug type, but the pin data is not the same however...
Some pictures:
The car, 405 GTX 1994 Sorrento Green:
The engine, looking rather sorry for itself:
Engine was stripped and block was painted white (did it to see leaks easier later). Replace cambelt etc... Then bought a fresh rallye AUX setup:
Started to complete it with all parts. Bought most off people on this forum (including a locked ECU
)
Mounted up the Rich W flywheel
Mounted up in car with all hoses connected up(Note the old 8v shitter in the background
) .:
Engine wouldnt fire at all. Triple checked the wires and voltages and everything was correct. Turned out to be a locked ECU. Started on first crank with a working ECU... Don't have any more recent pictures, but I guess Ill get some new ones when Ive neated up the bay. Car will be drivable by this weekend I hope, if I can borrow a ECU... Will be ordering a socketed ECU from Rich. But I guess the car should be quick. The GTX is about 60kg lighter than a 306 and handling is not bad either.
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XU10J4RS powered 405. 
Posted 16th Jun 2011 at 03:14
look at all that room!
. I really like this car, kind of cant let it go even though I should. 
Project thread 
