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Author Subject: Removing subframe
owain

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Post #1
How the hell do you do it?!

There seem to be four bit bolts underneath, then all kinds of crap going into engine mounts and such. I don't want to just go unbolting things in case the entire engine ends up dropping down...

I've got the wishbones out and clear, but it's not entirely obvious from there on in.

Please?

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 18:27
fozzy_255

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Location: portsmouth/Folkestone

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Post #2
You need to unbolt the steering rack too. and then the bolts on the suspension legs then the 4 big bolts at the back. i think thats it, is been a while since ive done it.

Oh wait and the gear linkage

the engine wont drop unless you undo the gearbox and top engine mounts.
Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 18:38
chris with a pug

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Post #3
there is 6 bolts holding it on 4 along the back and 2 on the arms
Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 18:52
owain

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Post #4
GEAR LINKAGES, that's what was causing the issue. They should definitely have been removed first, wasn't easy once they were all at a funny angle.

Well, I went back and got stuck in, part of the confusion was that one of the big bolts under the wheel arches had completely siezed, leading me to believe it wasn't meant to come off.

When the other one came out easily all became clear.

However. The siezed one has sheared off nicely Doh

Absolutely no idea how I'm going to get that out. Any ideas? Seems to go into a little bracket thing held on by two 13mm bolts, but it looks like the siezed bolt goes straight through that and into the chassis as well, so I can't just take the whole thing off...

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 19:20
ryangti6

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Post #5
I cant remember if the bolt is threaded into the leg or not tbh, I think it may just be threaded in that plate but not 100% as it's been ages since I messed with one.
Either way if the head has snapped the plate will come off and should leave you a bit of thread to grab with some grips, it should come out easier now with no pressure on the bolt.

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 20:36
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

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Post #6
Just take the two 13mm bolts out and remove the mount from the leg. Fairly low cost to replace if you can't get the end of the bolt out.

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 21:07
owain

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Post #7
Right, annoyingly turns out I could indeed have just removed the entire bracket by the two 13mm bolts as Rich rightly says Yes

Annoyingly it was so rusted on it didn't seem so, really had to slap it about with a hammer before it came off.

Guess I'll be putting a post in the wanted section then Yes

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 21:44
owain

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Post #8
Ah, can someone just confirm for me which was round the PAS pipes go on this picture? Does the thicker of the two go into the lower port in this pic or should it be the other way round?

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Posted 19th Mar 2011 at 22:04
tvrfan007

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Post #9
As per your pic Owain. Fat one at the bottom port.

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Posted 20th Mar 2011 at 02:22
owain

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Post #10
Sweet, cheers matey. Realised I hadn't taken a picture before I removed them Doh

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Posted 20th Mar 2011 at 03:58
tvrfan007

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Post #11


For your peace of mind. Laugh (it's hiding under an oily rag in the garden lol)

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Posted 21st Mar 2011 at 00:51
owain

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Post #12
Good man, I had visions of my steering trying to turn the wrong way when I steered LOL

Just got to figure out how the various pipes and cables all routed now, might just whip the clutch cable off for now...

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Posted 21st Mar 2011 at 01:07
clen666

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Post #13
HELP!

The 19mm bolts are seized on mine too, unfortunately when trying to undo the 13mm bolts instead, one of them has sheared off flush with the chassis leg.

Any way of successfully removing this?

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 12:54
owain

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Post #14
That is what I'd describe as "unfortunate". I can only think of trying to drill out the old bolt, maybe accepting you'll need to re-tap the hole larger?

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 13:32
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #15
Drill a small hole in the chassis leg above the mount and squirt in copious ammounts of penetrating oil. This should work its way into the siezed fixings and help you to release them. I find an impact gun works wonders on this sort of thing as its the repeated small shocks instead of constant hard tisting that makes rusty fastners come out. Once you get it moving don't be tempted to try and wind it out all in one go. Revese the gun and drive the fixing back in and then unwind it a little more, this helps to clear the debris from the threads and stops them from binding, repeat until they run free. As for the sheared 13mm bolt, grind the head off, then centre punch and drill out from underneath (wear goggles/glasses as hot swarf in the eyes stings like buggery, I'm told) then tap the threads or replace the mount if its not saveable.

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Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 14:14
owain

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Post #16
IIRC you cannot get to the other side of the bolt, so the head end has sheared off and the other end is stuck in the chassis with little hope of retrieval.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 14:16
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #17
Its a weld nut in the chassis leg. If you grind the head off the nut the bracket will come off. But you will need to sort the remains of the bolt in the leg by drilling/tapping. If all else fails you can always clean off the paint and weld the mount straight to the chassis Smile

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 14:30
cwspellowe

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Post #18
daveyboy wrote:
wear goggles/glasses as hot swarf in the eyes stings like buggery, I'm told


'tis as I found out last weekend, angle grinding with no glasses cos you couldnt be arsed finding them is a BAD idea! Had to have metal picked out my eye with a needle in A&E before having the rest removed the next day at a specialist Ninja

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 15:00
owain

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Post #19
cwspellowe wrote:
Had to have metal picked out my eye with a needle in A&E before having the rest removed the next day at a specialist


You had the rest of your eye removed?! Bad times.

I always do the same with ear protectors when I've got my head under a wheel arch hammering metal-on-metal against a balljoint separator. "It'll be fine, I won't bother getting them".

Oh wait, now my ears are really ringing and I can't hear much. Fail me.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 15:05
cwspellowe

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Post #20
How stuck are your balljoints? And why's your head under the wheel arch?

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 15:32
owain

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Post #21
You don't even want to know, but it was a mate's car. Trying to loosen the balljoints enough to measure them without having to remove the discs or calipers.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 15:38
clen666

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Post #22
thanks for the advice fellas.

will have a poke about and see what I can do, but might just end up doing what Jim suggests and weld the mount to chassis.

plan on doing a bit of stitch welding of the engine bay at some point anyway Ninja

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 17:17
cwspellowe

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Post #23
owain wrote:
You don't even want to know, but it was a mate's car. Trying to loosen the balljoints enough to measure them without having to remove the discs or calipers.


Ahh, makes sense. Although surely it would have been easier just to remove the brakes instead of f*cking about with a bj splitter at funny angles?

That's why I enjoyed working at the garage the other week, lift the car above your head and whack with a BFH from whatever angle you want. No lying on the floor covered in p*ssing rain Laugh

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 20:11
owain

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Post #24
cwspellowe wrote:
surely it would have been easier just to remove the brakes instead of f*cking about with a bj splitter at funny angles?


Yes, yes it would. But I didn't realise what a shitty state the joint would be in until I was half way through.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 20:20
cwspellowe

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Post #25
Ah, shoot first, ask questions later. Good call.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 20:33

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