displaying posts 1 to 20 of 20

Author Subject: Alternator /Charging WTF
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #1
Okay, I've been searching through for long enough now, and I've just run out of knowledge so hope someone can help.

My car mostly lives in the garage, and recently hasn't been being driven much. I had the dash all out to replace the heater matrix, came to start it up and battery was dead. Fair enough, I've had the car a year and I have no idea how long the battery's been in before that.

Replace battery, starts up fine. Run it for a bit, stop it. Start again, all's well. Start it up today (four days later) and it reluctantly starts. Bit weird, but still. However, go to start it again this afternoon and it's completely dead again.

Here's my conclusions so far:

1. The alternator is working. When jump started, there's 14v across the battery terminal *themselves* - not the cables going to them, but the actual terminals. Therefore the alternator must be working and giving 14v to the battery.

2. The voltage in the centre console is 12v with the engine off, and 14v with it on. Again, alternator must be working.

3. The could be something draining current. However I don't have an alarm, and I'm pretty sure the lights flash if the alarm is going off anyway? I also have barely anything else in the car any more.

4. After a 20-minute drive (having jump-started), I got back and turned off the engine. Immediately tried to restart it, and nothing - completely dead. Therefore anything draining current would have to be drawing hundreds of amps to immediately flatten the battery, and if that was happening then it'd pull it from the alternator when running and the car would idle really high.

The only conclusion I can come to is that I've maybe bought a dud battery that won't charge, but does that even happen anymore? That would imply however that it was coincidental that the old one died then the new one was dud? Seems unlikely.

If anyone can help, please do. I'm all out of ideas...

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 16th Feb 2011 at 23:37
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #2
battery warning light on the dash work ok?

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 16th Feb 2011 at 23:44
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #3
How do I know if it's working? What's it meant to do?

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 00:17
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,839

Status: Offline

Post #4
the light should come on with ignition, and go off when you start the car.

when this bulb fails (or any part of the wiring to it) the alternator doesn't charge till the engine is revved up beyond roughly 3k rpm (IIRC) its the exciter wire, the smallest one connected to the Alt Smile

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 00:36
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #5
Hmm, that sounds like exactly the thing that could've happened - in fact the left hand side of my dials weren't lit up and I had to give them a comedy whack to get them lit up.

In saying that, that was at the start of the drive.

I'll have a check tomorrow, cheers matey Smile

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 00:40
james_gti6

Senior User

Location: Goodwick

Registered: 18 Jan 2010

Posts: 528

Status: Offline

Post #6
earth out the warning light wire to check that the bulb is ok and check you have 12v on the battery feed. if you have them two, take the alternator off, if its a valeo unit, you will probably find the sliprings are worn down to the rotor shaft.

________________________________________

if i dont see you in the mattress il see you in the spring
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 01:55
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #7
But surely if I have 14v to the battery then that's that, it should be charging?

Or have I misunderstood somewhere? Is it possible that the alternator can be knackered and still be giving 14v?

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 02:32
james_gti6

Senior User

Location: Goodwick

Registered: 18 Jan 2010

Posts: 528

Status: Offline

Post #8
sounds like the alternator is charging, put a amp meter between the negative battery and disconnect the battery cable from the alternator, if the rectifier as a blown it will still charge 14v, but there may be a drain when turned off. a diode works like a one way valve and if it has gone it will back feed through the dud diode causing a drain.

or could be a bad earth

________________________________________

if i dont see you in the mattress il see you in the spring
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 02:44
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #9
Well this is what I don't get, 14v is being delivered to the battery, and yet it just doesn't seem to be being charged.

Is there anything that could be wrong which would mean that the voltage is being delivered but nowhere near enough current?

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 03:01
james_gti6

Senior User

Location: Goodwick

Registered: 18 Jan 2010

Posts: 528

Status: Offline

Post #10
possibly a dud new battery. worth getting it checked to rule it out

________________________________________

if i dont see you in the mattress il see you in the spring
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 03:02
cwspellowe

Seasoned Pro

Location: Calderbank

Registered: 19 Jul 2009

Posts: 6,496

Status: Offline

Post #11
Check the battery voltage, if it's a dud it will hold a voltage for a few seconds then drop off to nothing.

________________________________________

Bye bye Sundance Kid Sad
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 06:59
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #12
Charge the battery independently, then do a load test on it and see what the outcome is.

When the battery is in the car, and the engine is running without any jump leads etc attached to it, can you read 14v (roughly) across the terminals??

Also, as Mei says, when you turn the ignition on, does the battery light illuminate, and then when the engine starts it goes off??

Stan.

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 12:54
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #13
Chris - yesterday I had a meter on the voltage having turned the engine off (this was earlier in the day) and the voltage dropped from 12.8v down slowly, and I got bored and did something else at about 12.5v - however as it's a 12v battery I wouldn't be surprised to see it drop *to* 12v. I'll check it this evening having left it a day, see what the voltage is at.

I've also got one of those clamp-type ammeters at work, I'll nick that to see where current's going.

How to I know (short of jacking it all up) which wire goes to the alternator? Presumably just a large wire running to the positive terminal of the battery? I seem to remember there are two or three, I assume the largest positive cable will be going to the starter motor.

Stan - yes, the car running by itself has 14v across the terminals, this is what I don't understand. Don't know about the battery light yet, I'll check that tonight also.

I think I've got a trickle charger at my parents, I'll grab that. Once it's charged, what's the best way to load test it?

Cheers people, much appreciated.

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 13:17
mark.evs

Senior User

Location: Near Bridgend

Registered: 21 Dec 2010

Posts: 527

Status: Offline

Post #14
daft question mate, have u checked the connections on the starter? sounds like your battery charging system is ok, a loose terminal on a starter will cause it to start ok 1 min then slow or no start the next. i've had the problem b4.

________________________________________

My GTi6 track project

White Rallye project
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 18:13
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #15
Fair point, but the car goes from not starting to starting perfectly with a booster attached.

Good thought though, cheers.

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 18:50
mark.evs

Senior User

Location: Near Bridgend

Registered: 21 Dec 2010

Posts: 527

Status: Offline

Post #16
either that or could be corroded terminals on the earth wires onto the gearbox or body. Had that problem too, the joys of owning a pug i suppose.lol

________________________________________

My GTi6 track project

White Rallye project
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 19:04
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #17
True, but again I wouldn't get 14v across the battery terminals if that were the case.

I've invested in a decent battery tester which can apply up to 500A of load to the battery, so I can add that to my list of things to test. I'm thinking:

1. jump the car, take it for a 20-minute drive, then check the voltage. If it's 14v, it should've charged.

2. Remove battery terminals with the engine running to stop anything discharging the battery when the engine stops

3. Give the battery a load test. If it fails, it's a dead battery for sure. If not, at least I'll know to look elsewhere.

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 19:28
mark.evs

Senior User

Location: Near Bridgend

Registered: 21 Dec 2010

Posts: 527

Status: Offline

Post #18
if u had a week connection u would get the 14v through it but the pull under starting can still be affected. what are the sides of the battery like? are they bulged? bulging on the side is a common sign of warped plates in the battery, caused buy being cold or in a new battery, it could've been stored on a cold concreate floor in the wearhouse for a while.

________________________________________

My GTi6 track project

White Rallye project
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 19:35
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #19
Good points mate, I'll add them to the list of things to check for Smile

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 17th Feb 2011 at 19:40
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #20
Oh my frickin God.

So, check the battery voltage - 12.5v. Interesting, hasn't dropped its voltage.

Go to start the car, just a click then nothing. Expected. Whip the battery out, get a load tester on it. Performs absolutely fine, exactly as you'd expect from a good battery.

Get the battery back in the car, ignition on. Battery light comes on. Okay, that's fine. Try the starter, and it fires up! What the hell...?

Turns out after all that - it was indeed a loose cable. But not in *any* of the places I'd looked, nothing was broken, nothing was frayed, it was just the thinner cable to the positive terminal was slightly loose where it bolts on.

It was still attached but only finger-tight. Tighten it up properly, and the car starts every time.

Turns out what must've been happening was that jump-starting the car wasn't actually what was making it start - it was the physical clamp from the lead then pushing the connection together properly. No matter it was so seemingly random!

So that's sorted, and thanks to everyone who helped.

Only slight annoyance is that I load tested the old battery and it was in fact completely fine. Can I find the receipt? Can I bo***cks.

Cheers again people, yet another lesson learned - just because a cable's in good condition and bolted to the battery, doesn't mean it's actually got a connection Doh

________________________________________

Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.
Posted 19th Feb 2011 at 17:27

All times are GMT. The time is now 15:53

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.