crank sensor connected?

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

top of the gearbox under the thermostat housing.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

The key light only comes on if there is an immobiliser fault, I would say that's the issue.

Carl

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C.G.Cars of Leicester, Peugeot/Citroen/Renault specialist Tel: 01162 624498/07799 405184 WWW.CGCARSLEICESTER.CO.UK
36 narborough road south, Leicester LE3 2fn

MOT station now open, tests £35 with a free retest.
Recovery available with a recovery unit, for those not so local jobs

Also offer the loan of a free courtesy car 306 dturbo

You shouldn't see the key light at all, the pump will prime, the immobiliser will cut the spark and fuel injector pulse.

Carl

________________________________________

C.G.Cars of Leicester, Peugeot/Citroen/Renault specialist Tel: 01162 624498/07799 405184 WWW.CGCARSLEICESTER.CO.UK
36 narborough road south, Leicester LE3 2fn

MOT station now open, tests £35 with a free retest.
Recovery available with a recovery unit, for those not so local jobs

Also offer the loan of a free courtesy car 306 dturbo

Thanks for the help, Got it running this morning, It was the halo thing that sits around the key, the cap had come off and the circit board was hanging on the loom and I put it back together. Only when I looked closer this morning i noticed it did not seem to be sitting down quite right, there are 2 prongs that have to contact a very thin wire but they were not connecting properly, just need to cut out the parts of the loom that are not needed and make a few mods to lengths because the buggy is rear/mid engined.
Thanks Again for the help, Lee.

pics please!

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

So now I have the engine running but still have the FULL loom from the car all over the floor, There is a massive amount of it thats not needed for what I am doing but I do have to be carefull not to remove any stuff I need including the immobiliser side of things.
I am thinking if cutting a few wires then start the engine and revving it to the rev limiter to check it has not dropped in to limp mode, if it revs out ok then do the same again with a few more wires and keep on doing this until I have removed all the wires not needed, A bit heath robinson but my wiring skills are shell we say "limited" I am told I would need to be carefull not to remove the "cold start" side of things doing this but no idea what I am looking for
I will also need to extend the wires for the clocks,ignition key and halo thing that sits around the key.
Could not having abs block and sensors affect the running of the engine or could talk of this just be scaremongery?
Thanks Lee

offroad 68 has attached the following image:

Got it all up and running now and all seems fine, Getting a few fault codes, could anyone please point me it the right direction as to where to start looking for these problems.
P1108 Dual alternator battery lamp circuit malfunction / Baro to MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor comparison too high

P1109 Intake air temperature (IAT) B sensor intermittent

P1538 Intake manifold runner control (Bank 2) Stuck open

P1539 Power to A/C clutch circuit Overcurrent

443 EVAP emission control system purge valve c fault

Thanks Lee.