displaying posts 1 to 18 of 18

Author Subject: head bolt size
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

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Post #1
just pinched some M12 nuts from work to clamp down the liners on my XU7 when i take the head off and tried one on the VTS head bolts i have only to find it doesn't fit Angry IIRC the standard pitch is 1.75 but does anybody know what pitch the head bolts are? i'm guessing at 1.25, awkward french gits Roll eyes
Posted 13th Dec 2010 at 23:18
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #2
alloy XU blocks are M11 x 1.5.

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Posted 13th Dec 2010 at 23:19
joevts

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Post #3
what?! Shock i didn't even know M11 existed and i test nuts and bolts for a living LOL even M7s are like rocking horse shit Roll eyes so what are the XU10 bolts? and what effect does the difference have when swapping heads?

also, how the hell do i clamp down the liners without some M11 nuts? Sad
Posted 13th Dec 2010 at 23:26
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #4
xu10 are M12 x 1.5 IIRC.


use the original head bolts (maybe cut down) with spacers.


M7 are relatively common on pugs Laugh my ass off

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Posted 13th Dec 2010 at 23:38
joevts

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Post #5
yeah but i'm a tight git and chopping up the bolts will mean i need to buy new ones LOL

by relatively common you mean there are one or two LOL i pinched one out of a BE gearbox and ground the head to a mushroom to replace the rocker adjuster bolt that snapped on my 309 LOL
Posted 13th Dec 2010 at 23:49
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #6
They're only £15 or so for a set.

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Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:00
joevts

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Post #7
and i don't even have so much as a hacksaw at the garage. how important is it that the liners are clamped? and how securely do they need to be clamped?
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:17
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #8
depends if you have ensured the bottom end has no chance of moving till the head is back on and bolted down.

its all just in effort to save having to replace a few quid's worth of liner seals

to replace said seals would mean dropping the sump off and unbolting the big ends, and removing the liner and piston in one go.

________________________________________

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:21
rallyeash

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Post #9
if youre fitting new liner seals use grease or vaseline around the seal at the bottom of the liner. i split a seal once fitting a liner... lucky i thought i did so i checked before i fitted the head

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:38
rallyeash

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Post #10
joevts wrote:
and i don't even have so much as a hacksaw at the garage. how important is it that the liners are clamped? and how securely do they need to be clamped?


how are you building an engine without any toolsUnsure

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:39
joevts

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Registered: 21 May 2008

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Post #11
i wasn't aware that a hacksaw was one of the tools necessary to build an engine Unsure

i'm not planning on stripping the whole bottom end down to replace the seals unless i really have to. why do they move so easily anyway? are they really that loose in the block? Roll eyes
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:53
rallyeash

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Post #12
joevts wrote:
i wasn't aware that a hacksaw was one of the tools necessary to build an engine Unsure


your doing it all wrong then!

but saying i don't even have so much as a hacksaw gives the impression youve no tools atall..

they move easily (ish) but dont need to be any tighter as obviously the head holds the secure.

i guess you have the bottom end on a stand and want to swing it upside down hence bolting the liners? or are they lifting up when trying to turn the engine over by hand

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 00:59
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

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Post #13
rallyeash wrote:
joevts wrote:
i wasn't aware that a hacksaw was one of the tools necessary to build an engine Unsure


your doing it all wrong then!

but saying i don't even have so much as a hacksaw gives the impression youve no tools atall..

they move easily (ish) but dont need to be any tighter as obviously the head holds the secure.

i guess you have the bottom end on a stand and want to swing it upside down hence bolting the liners? or are they lifting up when trying to turn the engine over by hand


i know i made it sound like i had no tools, sorry LOL i have access to more tools at work if i need them, but i just want to take the head off tomorrow because someone might want to buy it, and then the engine will have paid for itself Whistle i was hoping just a few sockets etc and a female torx bit would do the job.

obviously they aren't going anywhere at the minute cos the head is still on, but i don't want to create a load more work for myself i.e. having to strip the whole bottom end down for the sake of a few shitty seals Roll eyes and no, it's not on a stand, it was leaned on a bag of sand last time i saw it LOL
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 01:09
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

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Post #14
ok so if push comes to shove and i end up chopping the bolts, how long do they need to be? and how wide do the washers need to be?
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 01:28
rallyeash

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Post #15
im sure ive actually got a set of old Xu7 head bolts from my old alloy blocked mi16/gti6 Hybrid.

will have a look when im next up my workshop

________________________________________

230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveysHyper Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 01:32
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

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Post #16
so how did you clamp the liners down then? or did you strip the whole thing down?
Posted 14th Dec 2010 at 06:19
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

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Post #17
got the head off, i was expecting to need a female torx socket for the head bolts, but it was a male T55, not only that but the ½" drive T55 wouldn't fit down the hole so i had to buy a 3/8" drive one for the job. can't really see the liners going anywhere, they felt pretty solid to me. crank pulley looks to have slipped about 150 degrees but i had the top end timed up and don't think the crank's moved. should the pistons be at about the same level but with the outer two a few mm higher?
Posted 15th Dec 2010 at 05:56
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #18
should all be dead level, sounds like the pulley had started to move last time the belt was done or its moved, either way I'd get the liners clamped some way or another then sort the bottom end's timing.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 15th Dec 2010 at 22:30

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