Just a short message to let u all know if your looking for a decent coil over kit then ap do one for just over £300 I fitted mine myself and dropped it 60mm on the rear roughly and matched the front accordingly. It looks great and handles like it's on rails. I also went for a 45 profile all round with ze912s can't fault it yet. Lovely

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

Well with a 55 profile your speedo is still 10% out my speedo with the 45 profile is accurate to within 1mph via constant speed via satelite. What else is pointless??

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

mine didnt look to bad when i got the car, was on 45 profile and VERY low (jimmyrallye for you) but speedo on motorways was litterally making me and after it being that low for so long rearbeam had completly gone, camber on both sides and siezed, so a few hundred pounds with Carl later and new rearbeam, not a spine breaking lowness and handling was back.

im sure there be someone along soon to say "you dont know what ""handles like its on rails"" means until you have it set up correctly"

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Ex-Black 6 - Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

Both valid points but each to their own in my opinion. I think it looks awesome and the wheels look great with the 45's handeling is also great it's a fast road set up so not too stiff it doesn't bounce or skip either. I have no camber issues or torsion bar issues at present. I'm pretty sure it's dropped 60mm but can raise it if I ever need to. What are you guys running?

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

well i could never get the speedo to actually say 100 when doing 100 on the satnav & snooper.

was running 45 profiles on adjustable avo coilovers at around 75mm, now with new beam new front sus (Springs) only lowered around 50mm on 50 profile, rear solid beam mounts, new droplinks has made a world of difference, its because it was so low for so long i think, the "adjustableness" seized up and wouldnt move as it was left so low but it looked nice at the time

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Ex-Black 6 - Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

Either way my speedo is as accurate if not more than before from 0-142. 75mm is a savage drop I bet she looked sexual! Not surprised the beam couldn't cope after being in that position for so long. I'll try and gets some pics up and you'll have to let me know what you think.

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

Well you can adjust the front the rear can't do that but they are easy enough to do

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

You dont know what you are talking about. Putting lower profile tyres (and making the rolling radius smaller) causes you speedo to over read, so if it was unaccuarate before at 100mph (and standard they underead so you dont get done by speed cameras etc) it will only be more innacurate than before and read much lower. Unless as CW says you've fiddled with the needles making it accurate at 100mph and useless at any other speed

Or you arent running the standard 15" cyclones?

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Cherry Red 306 HDI
Championship White Integra DC5 Type R

It reads accurate all the way through so not off all the time at all. As I said it's pretty much as before with the 55's as for knowing nothing about lowering the rear of a 306 when I said u can't adjust the rear my meaning was it's not like a front coilover you have to take it apart and adjust to your preference every time you want to go lower or higher. If we wish to p*ss and moan about a supposed in accurate speedo then I shall post an accurate video if needed?

________________________________________

Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

Me to x

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

I must be. And also must be wrong because you say so. Oops my fault

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

As previously said I'm wrong my car is wrong as is my speedo, as said if I'm doin 30 I'm doin 30 if I'm doin 50 I'm doin 50 simples

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Team Nile 6
Team: 40.2 MPG
5 x a 306 owner!
currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™
I truely live for the 306 ®
Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
midweek madness

Regardless of how sarcastic you want to be, and how O/T this is getting, the speedo works off a cog on the final drive of the gearbox. As such it works off a ratio to the rotational speed of the wheels.

Changing tyre profile affects the speedo by making the VSS/speedo think the outer circumference of the wheels are turning at the same speed, yet in actual fact the circumference of the wheel has changed and the distance covered is no longer in proportion with the speed the wheel is rotating, hence why the speedo becomes even more inaccurate as the gearing is set up based on the radius of a 195/55/15 tyre.

Like I said earlier, to make the speedo more accurate you either need to adjust the ratio between final drive and VSS, adjust the resistance of the circuit in electronic speedo cases, or what's more likely play with the needle til you "think" it's more accurate when in fact it's zero'd in at one certain speed and just as inaccurate at others.

Assume the speedo is centred at zero to begin with, with a 10% mechanical error. At 30mph indicated you will be travelling, for instance, 27mph. 10% underreading.

Zero the needle at 100mph, and at 30mph you will have the inaccuracy of a speed approx 70mph (100-30) so in fact you could actually be doing 37mph (10% of 70mph, overreading as working backwards from 100mph)

Of course those figures are based purely on guesstimation, for example you may not have centred it at 100mph, but you get my point. Like I said i'd love to know what you've done

x

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Bye bye Sundance Kid