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Author Subject: low boost charger or 240bhp n/a
pedro_de_la_cruz

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Post #26
agreed charging is deffo the best route money wise, my pockets still reeling from going the n/a route, not that I even got THAT far LOL

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Posted 3rd Sep 2010 at 16:32
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #27
I'd stick with N/A but I'm an idiot and always do things the hard way. Plus everyone seems to want to go S/C these days (Any normal person would take this to mean it's the most sensible choice, which it almost certainly is) but would'nt it be a dull world if we all did the same thing?

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Posted 4th Sep 2010 at 00:55
binkagti

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Post #28
Yep you could go turbo, that finally seems to work lol, be different

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Posted 4th Sep 2010 at 03:50
SteviePut

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Post #29
binkagti wrote:
Yep you could go turbo, that finally seems to work lol, be different


Have you de-tuned yours somewhat? I thought it was more like 400bhp not 300??

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Posted 4th Sep 2010 at 03:53
binkagti

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Post #30
Yep reliable 300 at the mo, need to change for 660cc injectors bigger fuel pump and should be back up to 400bhp or maybe a little more lol

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Posted 4th Sep 2010 at 03:57
309btcc

**DODGY SELLER**

Location: england

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Post #31
havnt got that sorta cash tom its expensive plus i love the roar bodies give....
Posted 4th Sep 2010 at 16:24
blandy

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Post #32
Bit of a thread revival hear but saves opening up a new thread...

pretty much same thing im looking at currently but has anyone had or driven both options i.e low boost charger and a fairly sorted n/a? as from my workings there seems around £1k difference between a high comp n/a build and a low boost charger set up and from what i understand

n/a = around 230-240 bhp (for package ive been quoted) so is a fully built engine so reliability should be as good as it gets

charger = around 250-260bhp but obviously a charger on a old engine so im guessing in theory less reliable but around 20 horses more (with more future tuning potential)

does the 20bhp make a difference or does power delivery etc play a big part?
Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 14:24
anth

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Post #33
I reckon N/A would be more enjoyable.

More torque as well probably.
Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 15:33
fatlapit

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Post #34
anth you a wrong i think

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 16:00
dav1

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Post #35
N/a route. I had a 230bhp engine in my 205 sounded imense Esepcally at 8000rpm. I built mine very cheap. Takes bit longer waiting for parts to come up second hand. Got every thin then had enough waiting and bought cams brand new. Spec- 87mm omega hi-comp pistons, nwman ph4 cams, weber alpha throttle bodies, omex ecu, arp rod bolts,colin satchel inlet. Done Granted it was in a 205 which makes it quicker. But bloody hell it went like Fu@k. 155mph at 8000rpm Big grin

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 16:59
blandy

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Post #36
does anyone have torque figures for both? or better still a graph?
Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 18:29
simonjames

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Post #37
The reason i went with the low boost was after the initial spend IF/WHEN you decided you want more all you do is go high boost for less than £2.5k and you have a 380+bhp car

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:12
blandy

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Post #38
See that's my main thought atm but I see everyone says for track use go for bodies but if the supercharger delivers its power so well I.e very linear then surely the supercharger would be as good on track, the only downside I can see is having the intercooler in front of the rad might not do wonders for the cooling system with track work?
Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:22
simonjames

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Post #39
I've not actually had mine out on track yet so cant comment yet but some slim line fans and an oil cooler should keep things nice and cool

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:38
fatlapit

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Post #40
the rad will be ok mate and plus you would also run an oil cooler 19 row i would imagine

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:39
smegal

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Post #41
LB supercharged '6 with a smaller restricter ring and poor cam timing.

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:43
simonjames

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Post #42
Smaller ring to reduce flow more ?

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:55
welshpug!

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Post #43
a mild 2.2 build would match that Smile

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 19:59
spiky

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Post #44
my SC kit was 2.5k,


yes it was second hand, thats the better way to go,

or buy a second hand high BHP NA car Smile

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 20:31
fatlapit

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Post #45
turbo?????

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 20:36
simonjames

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Post #46
spiky wrote:
my SC kit was 2.5k,


yes it was second hand, thats the better way to go,

or buy a second hand high BHP NA car Smile



Agree'd i paid slightly more for mine but had trailering fee's to get car back to mine

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 20:36
simonjames

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Post #47
fatlapit wrote:
turbo?????


the fitting kit and turbo unit are cheaper than a super charger and super charger fitting kit but you have to reduce compression to run turbo (as far as im aware) so no low/high boost option meaning that initial costs are higher but with a supercharger it can be done in stages when money is available

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 20:39
blandy

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Post #48
only thing that concerns me with the charger is that its going on a 10-15yr old engine which could mean going high boost could come sooner than wanted if the engine isnt up to scratch? also the 2.5k extra to go high boost im guessing thats diy money as its around £8.5k on lynx's site (last time i looked)
Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 20:57
simonjames

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Post #49
yeah i do everything DIY so thats the figures i work with LOL

as long as engine has been serviced well has a new ish belt and doesnt smoke it will be fine iirc there was someone running a 150k engine low boost with no issues

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 21:05
chrisd306

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Post #50
buy my engine for 5k, basically everything you need to go high boost is included, from exhaust to rad an oil coolers an ic an ecu all the stuff, 400.7bhp.

its very handy on track does get hot after 15-20 laps in decent wetaher, but to be fair thats as much as id do at once anyway

or infact just buy my rallye

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Posted 24th Jun 2012 at 21:34

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