relay on back of battery?

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]

i had a lot of trouble with the relay box on my s16 engine getting it running after putting the engine back in. the magnet inside it was sticking causing it to work intermittently and it ran like an absolute bag of shit then refused to start at one point

up to you, not heard of the ECU's dying though myslf, i would still put money on a relay or break in wiring

why not just try another ECU first?

unless you have sustained pretty hefty water ingress into the ecu

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]

I've not tried another ECU i'm not sure what is coded to what on these cars (i'm used to much simpler times with my megasquirt'd cinquecento!).

I've tested the wiring from plug to plug and it all checks out, both the 12v supply and the connection back to the ECU. I really can't see how it could be anything else.

armzs16 - would one of those ECUs still work ok with everything on an (almost) standard Xsara VTS?

yes they are coded to the immobilizer ECU, if you want to replace the engine ECU you will either have to change the engine ecu immobilizer ecu and ignition pick up ring as a set from another car, or just get an unlocked one that has had the immobilizer disabled.

I presume a xsara vts has the same magnetti marelli ecu as a gti6? in whuch case an unlocked ecu will slove your problem (providing the ecu is at fault)
Pete.

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Black power baby! SUUUUUPERCHARGED
Seat Leon FR TDI 190BHP 300lbft daily gti-6 killer :p
12x 306's owned so far

Cambelts, clutches, service work carried out on All makes and models, Peugeot Citroen / mitsubishi specialist.
Pug planet / Citroen Lexia diagnostics / code reads available.

i have reset the codes, but it was never ran (initially) with the no3 injector unplugged. So i'm assuming they are genuine codes - i will it a while with them plugged in to see what happens tho.

The ECU is a magnetti marelli like the gti6 but i think with it being a phase2 vts it's slightly different (unless there is an OBD2 compliant gti6?)

load sensors? MAP / TPS? wouldn't that take out all of the injectors though?

Hi Mark,

I should come clean for the forum too, I don't own a 306 either but a '02 VTS like you (well it's my brother's car actually). My company fits and tunes Motec engine management among others and I'm chasing a wiring diagram for the ECU as we would like to start playing with his VTS. I noticed you said you had one (hint, hint!) Are you able to help me out with a copy of the relevent pages?

As for your car, something you could do for the time being to get you out of trouble would be to bridge an injector output from a cylinder which is working to the one that isn't and cut the wire running back to the ecu for the one that's stopped so the driving injector ouput doesn't backfeed anything to the failed one or visaversa. These engines run 16ohm injectors so the additional load on the ECU won't be a problem as they are a high impedance injector and draw stuff all current. Not a nice solution granted, but at least one that will let you drive the car for the time being until you can find out why the injector driver failed in the first place. BEFORE DOING THIS I would suggest checking the DC resistance of your injectors and making sure they are all ~16ohms. If you come across one that is <4 ohms for example then you've got one that has gone bad. It's very unlikely and very rare to have happen, but then again so are they symptoms you've described. If you find one that has a very different reading to the others then don't proceed with the bridging to another output instruction above! You'll only toast another injector driver. Get yourself a replacement and go from there. You may even find that after swapping it out and clearing all the fault codes it will come good. I don't know if the magnetti marelli is smart enough to shutdown an output if it detects too much current draw so as to avoid a hardware problem like burning out a driver.

For more help if you like either reply on the forum here or shoot an email to me bradley<at>tptech.com.au

Hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,

Bradley Smith