displaying posts 1 to 10 of 10

Author Subject: 309 VTS
joevts

Senior User

Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

Status: Offline

Post #1
i have a couple of xsara engines: a mostly intact 1.8, and a VTS lump that has shat a rod. my plan is to rebuild the VTS head, stick it on the 1.8 bottom end and run it on carbs in my 309.

now i'm coming to the point where i need to start building the engine so being the novice that i am i could do with some words of experience.

firstly, won't a smaller swept volume with the same sized combustion chamber give a lower compression ratio?

secondly, do the XU7 pistons have cutouts or will they need machining to allow clearance for the bigger valves (also bearing in mind the head has been skimmed)?

thirdly, what head gasket will i need? are they pretty much the same apart from cylinder bore? and i assume i'll need a thicker one with the skimmed head?

fourthly, before i start taking the XU7 to bits, it has been stood a while with no inlet manifold and the ports unprotected so theres probably crap in the bores, would it be a good idea to just take the head off and give the bores and piston top a wipe down with a lightly oiled rag to pick up the crap? i also heard from someone that turning the crank while the head is off would disturb the liners and i'd need new liner seals, this puts me in a predicament if the engine isn't at TDC already as it would mean turning the crank while there is an unknown quantity of crud stuck to the cylinder walls. any suggestions?

fifthly, on the subject of carbs, i've been looking at twin 40s but then today i heard someone say they aren't big enough for a GTI6, is there any truth in this?

and if anyone has any other random advice feel free to throw it at me Smile
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 00:05
vts_tibi

Seasoned Pro

Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,194

Status: Offline

Post #2
4th.: do not turn over the engine until you removed the dirt from the combustion chamber as it could make a few scratches on the cylinder wall - clean it out properly, oil up the walls and turn it over after

5th.: a GTI6 would need DCOE45s

________________________________________

VTS
best 60' : 2.272
best 1/8 ET : 9.375 @ 74.42mph
best 1/4 ET: 14.603 @ 97.047mph

Team Trackday™
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 01:51
snillet

Newbie

Location: Ytterby / Sweden

Registered: 06 Apr 2010

Posts: 47

Status: Offline

Post #3
The XU7 is 16V?, if not the whole job becomes a bit more tricky.

________________________________________

Member of Peugeot Sport Club Sweden
http://www.peugeot-sport-club.com/
My son: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzjSBKkMHDA
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 01:59
vts_tibi

Seasoned Pro

Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,194

Status: Offline

Post #4
it is

________________________________________

VTS
best 60' : 2.272
best 1/8 ET : 9.375 @ 74.42mph
best 1/4 ET: 14.603 @ 97.047mph

Team Trackday™
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 02:30
joevts

Senior User

Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

Status: Offline

Post #5
vts_tibi wrote:
4th.: do not turn over the engine until you removed the dirt from the combustion chamber as it could make a few scratches on the cylinder wall - clean it out properly, oil up the walls and turn it over after

5th.: a GTI6 would need DCOE45s


when you say it would need 45s, you mean trying to run it on 40s would be utterly pointless?

and so what about the liner seals? does this mean i have to take off the head, clean out the bores, then put the head back on so i can turn the crank to the right position?
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 04:35
ryangti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Pontypool

Registered: 01 Sep 2006

Posts: 1,839

Status: Offline

Post #6
joevts wrote:
vts_tibi wrote:
4th.: do not turn over the engine until you removed the dirt from the combustion chamber as it could make a few scratches on the cylinder wall - clean it out properly, oil up the walls and turn it over after

5th.: a GTI6 would need DCOE45s


when you say it would need 45s, you mean trying to run it on 40s would be utterly pointless?

and so what about the liner seals? does this mean i have to take off the head, clean out the bores, then put the head back on so i can turn the crank to the right position?


You can do one of two things really,

1: When you remove the head clamp the liners, you can buy a tool to do this or you can use big washers and suitable bolts in the head bolt holes

2: Change the liner seals so it doesnt matter if they move

________________________________________

Ryan
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 05:06
jonnie205

Seasoned Pro

Location: Bicester

Registered: 10 Apr 2005

Posts: 4,146

Status: Offline

Post #7
changing liner seals is a huge job, requires a total engine stripdown.. i would just fit the engine as it is, spin it over on the starter to get oil pressure then run it
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 16:06
vts_tibi

Seasoned Pro

Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

Posts: 1,194

Status: Offline

Post #8
jonnie205 wrote:
changing liner seals is a huge job, requires a total engine stripdown.. i would just fit the engine as it is, spin it over on the starter to get oil pressure then run it

Blink

it has a few inlet ports open, and it's been sitting in a shed somewhere for over months

________________________________________

VTS
best 60' : 2.272
best 1/8 ET : 9.375 @ 74.42mph
best 1/4 ET: 14.603 @ 97.047mph

Team Trackday™
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 17:19
joevts

Senior User

Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

Status: Offline

Post #9
vts_tibi wrote:
jonnie205 wrote:
changing liner seals is a huge job, requires a total engine stripdown.. i would just fit the engine as it is, spin it over on the starter to get oil pressure then run it

Blink

it has a few inlet ports open, and it's been sitting in a shed somewhere for over months


true LOL i think the men in white coats are on their way to tie jonnie up before he gets his hands on any more XUs LOL
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 23:55
joevts

Senior User

Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

Status: Offline

Post #10
ryangti6 wrote:
joevts wrote:
vts_tibi wrote:
4th.: do not turn over the engine until you removed the dirt from the combustion chamber as it could make a few scratches on the cylinder wall - clean it out properly, oil up the walls and turn it over after

5th.: a GTI6 would need DCOE45s


when you say it would need 45s, you mean trying to run it on 40s would be utterly pointless?

and so what about the liner seals? does this mean i have to take off the head, clean out the bores, then put the head back on so i can turn the crank to the right position?


You can do one of two things really,

1: When you remove the head clamp the liners, you can buy a tool to do this or you can use big washers and suitable bolts in the head bolt holes

2: Change the liner seals so it doesnt matter if they move


so the liners sit flush with the top of the block and all i have to do is make sure they don't come up? think i'll get the head off then set about finding/making some big washers. haven't been up to the garage where the engine is for a while, so there's a slight chance it could be at TDC anyway from last time i tinkered with it.
Posted 23rd Jun 2010 at 23:58

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