|
displaying posts 26 to 33 of 33
Pages (2): 1 [2]
| Author | Subject: Gearbox Removal |
 welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,866 Status: Offline |
Post #26
most people here either remove the airbox, or already have K&N filters.also removing all the shafts first, and the speedo drive housing makes it a lot easier. also, most drop the engine off the top mounting and lower it on a trolley jack so the casing misses the inner wing. ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
 Posted 7th Jul 2010 at 13:37
|
|
|
opbk
Newbie  Location: Melbourne Registered: 25 Feb 2009 Posts: 23 Status: Offline |
Post #27
I'll be looking at a K&N - if only to avoid putting the airbox back in. Shafts came out first as did the speedo housing. Didn't drop the engine off the top mounting, but I did put trolly jack under it to be sure  Trying to source all the bits now: those whites bushes the fork release arm sits in, clutch cable, driveshafts seals and crankshaft seal. Am I missing anything? Already got the clutch kit  |
|
Posted 8th Jul 2010 at 08:09
|
|
|
welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,866 Status: Offline |
Post #28
in an ideal world some flywheel bolts, but if not just some threadlock and a torque wrench.________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
|
Posted 8th Jul 2010 at 15:10
|
|
|
funkymonk
Regular  Location: Westbury Registered: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 317 Status: Offline |
Post #29
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have my box almost all the way back on, talking literally 10mm tops gap. I can get the bolts in but is it safe to pull it in using them or is it still missing something? Clutch fork is tucked behind the release bearing and it looks far enough in that it should have slid into the friction plate so I am a bit confused! Tried jiggling and swearing at it but doesn't seem to help! ________________________________________ There are only 10 kinds of people in this world, those that understand binary and those that don't... |
|
Posted 27th Jul 2011 at 21:22
|
|
|
heliosphan
Senior User  Location: UK Registered: 14 Sep 2007 Posts: 950 Status: Offline |
Post #30
Mine was at this stage for ages, it was the splines not lining up correctly. It took one whole day of wiggling, then a mate came over which helped. It will slide right up to the block with no resistance whatsoever when you do finally get the splines lined up. It's just a pig doing it.  May not be best to use the bolts to pull it in. |
|
Posted 27th Jul 2011 at 23:03
|
|
|
tvrfan007
Seasoned Pro  Location: In the garage Registered: 29 May 2005 Posts: 3,488 Status: Offline |
Post #31
Stick your fingers in the gap and turn the input shaft slightly. Failing that, push it into a gear and spin the diff with your fingers.It's the splines not lining up correctly as above, I had this but was putting the box on the engine off the car so was much easier. ________________________________________ I'm Si btw Night Blue VW Golf GTD Bianca LBSC Rallye - Track/Road Slag Project Thread Sparkling Silver Mini Cooper D - Super Dooper  - (The other half's wheels) |
|
Posted 28th Jul 2011 at 11:19
|
|
|
buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro  Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,901 Status: Offline |
Post #32
funkymonk wrote: Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have my box almost all the way back on, talking literally 10mm tops gap. I can get the bolts in but is it safe to pull it in using them or is it still missing something? Clutch fork is tucked behind the release bearing and it looks far enough in that it should have slid into the friction plate so I am a bit confused! Tried jiggling and swearing at it but doesn't seem to help! no dont pull it in with the bolts, you will duck somthing up. keep trying and eventually it will slide all the way in, then put bolts in. ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
|
Posted 28th Jul 2011 at 20:51
|
|
|
daveyboy
aka Jim Davey  Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #33
tvrfan007 wrote: Stick your fingers in the gap and turn the input shaft slightly. Failing that, push it into a gear and spin the diff with your fingers. It's the splines not lining up correctly as above, I had this but was putting the box on the engine off the car so was much easier. May be easier to get a helper to turn the engine over slowly with a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley nut as you give the box a wiggle and try to get it to fully engage? ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
|
Posted 29th Jul 2011 at 16:55
|
|
Pages (2): 1 [2]
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2026 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy. (NEW HOST)