Dunno what you mean, that has nothing at all to do with my eating rice for the next three years.

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Oh, forgot to mention, I have a compressor and impact wrench here too

Its not very good though tbh.

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Long live the Sigma 6
Team Phase 1 supercharged

XBL ID: farmer uk1

Cheers again Farmer, might be heading over your way in a couple of weeks if I have no luck then!

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Craicing thread!

Well wear with it bud!

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Inside you are face!

Tune Of The Month

My clutch cable replacing consisted of it snapping 100yards down the street, fitting a replacement, driving to Blackpool, cable snapping again because the grommet in the bulkhead wasn't sitting right and the cable frayed on the bare metal, having to borrow my Dad's car to get back to Glasgow to work that night, leaving my Dad to fit the new cable and driving to Gretna to swap cars back 2 days later.

Including petrol costs and temp insurance costs.. calculate the BS value of that

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Bye bye Sundance Kid

Right, update time. Having given up on doing my rear suspension any time soon, it's time to start getting the car ready for Oulton Park on Tuesday. First issue is the blowers, a cable to which I forgot to put back last time. Dash out, find wire, replace.

The scale of how much easier it was to remove the dash this time around really does go to show quite how many nuts and bolts didn't get put back last time. Is this a concern? Na, it's weight saving.

So, blowers working and it's time to replace the matrix pipe of death which I broke last time. If you've never broken your matrix pipe trying to remove it, you will. It's this little bugger:



Bear in mind your coolant system is (hopefully) all full of coolant, so it's important to carefully drain the system first. I do this by yanking the pipe from the block, the old coolant will soon drain itself with the help of gravity and a gravel driveway.
Remove metal clips from the ends into the block, replace with new hose, refit. Simple.

To refill, you'll need a reservoir higher than the cooling system to make sure you're rid of any bubbles. That'll do nicely thankyou:



Turn the engine on so the water pump starts going and just keep pouring in coolant until it stops going down. Then unscrew the bleed screw on the new plugs you just put into the back of the matrix and this little one on top of the rad:



Close them when they start p*ssing coolant. Fill up the header tank until it's about full enough but not too full but full enough but not too full.

You'll find it easier to close the bonnet if you remove the coke bottle and replace the header cap.

Next job - gotta be the throttle cable. Now, there are two ways of doing this - the simple quick way which just involves replacing the inner metal part, and the proper way which involves replacing the whole thing.

If you've never done this before, you'll be just like me. You'll think that if a job's worth doing it's worth doing well, and you might as well replace the outer.

Take one look at where the cable goes into the bulkhead, realise the brake master cylinder and servo are in the way, and decide to just do the inner. Remove the little securing nut from the metal thing with the hole in it on the throttle:



You'll then be able to remove this clip from the top of the throttle pedal:



And just pull the inner through from the outside. I then poured some 3-in-1 oil down the sheathing and clipped the loose end up to the bonnet to let it run down - the inner didn't actually look to bad so I assume it's the outer sheath that's knackered. Push the new cable through from the pedal end, clip back to pedal and refit to throttle.

I replaced the little clippy thing with my new one, just cos it was shiny:



Cost 1, Difficulty 1, Time 1. Can't get better than that. A noticeable improvement but still a little sticky at points, so probably worth doing the outer at some point.

Right, I've got a big ol' drive up to Oulton on Tuesday. I now have air and heat, but no stereo. Even if I did, I have no speakers. I'm sure as hell not fitting any, so we'll have to come up with something else.

CHECK OUT MY PIMPIN ICE, b*tch.



Hell yeah that's the CD player with iPod dock outta my kitchen. And oh yeah we've pimped it Big Dog Stylee, with some phat wires from it going to an old phone charger I found, which turned out to be a 6 volt one so I had to solder up its innards, hell yeah.

Spade connectors for the win.



Won't catch me wit no tunage.

Ah crap, I've only got one cigarette lighter socket. I'm going to need sat nav, bluetooth phone thing, b*tchin ICE, and phone charger. That's not gonna work. Luckily, Maplin sell those little splitter things.

Unluckily, I'm an idiot.

Get an old painting tray, namely the one you used to do the lounge - you never bothered cleaning it because you couldn't be arsed, and now it's ruined.



Cut out a rectangle 192x67mm, roughly (I think, don't quote me). This is simpler done with a good Stanley knife, albeit at the serious risk of losing a finger.



Once you've done that, drill out three holes for chassis-mounting 12v sockets from Maplin.

You'll then need some kind of plastic or metal to make some mounting lugs. This looks like it was important, but the fact it's no longer attached to the car means it's probably not:



Cut yourself a couple of little bits like so:



Drill a 4mm hole in one side, and a pilot hole for some self-tappers in the other side. Then, fit them on the studs that hold the centre dash in and fit the 8mm nuts behind:



Now, we need power from somewhere; let's nab some from the current cigarette socket. I only have 2.5mm cable which isn't that big in car terms, so I'll run two in parallel. Power feeeeeeeeed:



And connect up the sockets:



Won't catch me running out of power.



I think that's pretty much me done for now, I'm off to break something at Oulton Park.

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that throttle cable would have been replaced sometime in the past if it already had that pinch bolt arrangement on it, in which case I'd probably go to the trouble of fitting the outer as well as the inner, seeing as you've bought it already

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Theres a bleed screw on the housing with all the sensors (green, blue and brown) on the side of the block too iirc?

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Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!

Which also snaps fairly easily, so be gentle!

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Seat Leon Cupra FR / 306 GTI6 / Breaking 205 GTI6 / Caterham 7 / Mercedes Sprinter 311CDI LWB

Sold: Fisher Fury - Laguna DCI Estate - P1 306 XSI - E30 BMW 325i Baur Convertible - Daihatsu Fourtack - Suzuki GSXR600 - 205 Rallye

5mm allen key, just needs to come slightly out as its drilled. Always scared the crap out of me undoing that one...

So how much weight has the new 12v system added then. You're going to need a massive alternator or a generator in the boot before long

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Nothing to see here

Hey, it's easier than heel & toe

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To be honest changing the inner has made a difference, but it's still sticking a lot. The throttle butterfly turns really smoothly by hand and the pedal was free and smooth with the cable off, so it can only the outer sheath.

Assuming I can figure out how the outer sheath comes off it'll definitely be worthwhile, else I probably wouldn't bother.

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Certainly the newer way of doing it doesn't involve doubling back on itself just before the throttle, so I'd assume it was because of that.

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