Post #51
Oh, budgets are good in the dry and generally work quite nicely on track. Bad in the wet and really bad in greasy conditions mind________________________________________
You didn't see anything. Right?
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| Author | Subject: Track Cars for Dummies |
 dangerous dave
Seasoned Pro  Location: Bedford Registered: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 9,890 Status: Offline |
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 Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 14:49
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owain
Seasoned Pro  Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #52
I'll give the gear linkages another chance, could well be because I'd been driving a new Astra all day and so was comparing it to that. I'll take a look at the seals but might just be getting the sunroof welded up anyway some point soon. And yes, as a top strut brace shouldn't really cause understeer I'm banking on it being tyres and suspension that's the issue for now, both of which should be addressed soon enough. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:03
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #53
brake pad securing bits on wrong!!!!make sure the right pad carrier is on the correct side as well, I learnt that they were different last week when I rebuilt a pair of calipers, I never had need to find that as I had never removed that part due to simply removing the slider bolts in the past. the lower edge of the carrier should be narrower where the L shaped bar slides in, and the springs should be on the leading edge of the pad ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:07
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #54
I noticed there way a difference, but couldn't see that it'd matter? Surely as long as the sliders and bits are all in the pads can't come out, they're just in the other way up. Or is this an issue...? ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:13
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kit
Seasoned Pro  Location: Location: Location: Registered: 22 Jan 2009 Posts: 2,394 Status: Offline |
Post #55
I love reading this thread. It keeps me entertained whilst I should be working  ________________________________________ Racing driver, fighter pilot, astronaut, compulsive liar. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:16
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #56
Heh, glad to hear it's serving some purpose at least  It also provides light relief from learning the C++ programming language and trying to get TasBooks to interface with an Oracle database, which is what I'm meant to be doing... ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:23
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #57
the pads can and do often come out! do it right  good move on fitting the new clips etc, that'll ensure the pads will self adjust and not fall out, as long as theyre fitted correctly. one thing to note also when winding the piston back, one slot has a small notch, this one should be aligned with the knobble on the back of the brake pad. finally, do all of this with the cable disconnected, pump the pedal several times, then refit cable and adjust as necessary  ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:28
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #58
Okay, so let's get this right. The two "beds" on the caliper that the pads slide on - I noticed one is wider than the other. The wider side I put the springs against as it seemed the more sensible choice (as it meant the spring was against the bed not a rough bit of cast iron). The narrower side I put in the new sliders.So you're saying that's right, but the calipers are basically on the wrong sides of the car, ie the sliders should be at the bottom, not the top? I spotted the notch and made sure those lined up. Which cable can you disconnect? Gotta be honest I wasn't too sure about disconnecting stuff so left it all connected. There's a lot of travel in the pedal now but I'm planning on bleeding it all through anyway. What cable can I disconnect, and how? ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:33
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #59
sounds like you have the pad carriers not the actual caliper on the wrong sides of the car.just unhook one cable from the lever on the caliper, its just in a groove, bleed it all up before you hook it back up. ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:43
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #60
If by "pad carrier" you mean the front cast iron lump then yes, that's all I removed. Not really sure what you mean about the cable but I'll take a look. Cheers. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 15:49
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #61
yes, thats the bugger  you'll see what I mean when you have a look at the cable on the caliper  you may well need to grip the lever and turn it so you can unhook the cable. ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:04
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #62
What does the cable do? Is it the handbrake cable we're talking about?________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:08
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #63
yup________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:41
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #64
Ah, think I might know what you're talking about then, I assumed you meant one of the brake lines. Out of interest, does the brake line just unscrew from the main caliper if I ever come to remove that? I've never had a car with solid lines into the caliper...________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:42
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,838 Status: Offline |
Post #65
yes they do indeed ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:47
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #66
Sweet, might do that sometime to refurb the calipers properly. Cheers buddy!________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 2nd Jun 2010 at 16:48
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #67
Well I was planning a big old update tonight, but what a massive shitty waste of time the last six hours of my life have been. Basically attempted to remove he old suspension, thinking I'd be able to compress the springs enough to get them out. Well, I couldn't. I've now read up on it more and it seems I'll need a 35mm socket (which I haven't got) to take the entire hub off. I'm currently in a situation where the spring is at a screwy angle on compressors so I can't even reassemble it and I still can't get the bas**rd strut out. Looks like tomorrow I'll have to source a socket and disassemble the hub. Really quite p*ssed off at myself right now, I thought I'd read up and had everything I needed, but no. Also need the car back up and running by Monday as it's having the sunroof sorted, so that's a nice little deadline. Oh well, beer and pizza I think. That'll make things better. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 01:57
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro  Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #68
Aye, disassembling the suspension for the first time can be a major ballache, I remember mine taking a full day of swearing, hammering and oiling.You're getting there though pal, good work ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 02:25
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #69
Cheers matey, the only positive is that I can see quite clearly that it'll be infinitely easier from now on should I want to change or refurb anything, it just gets a little tiring when every bolt is a mission in itself. We'll get there in the end ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 02:31
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cwspellowe
Seasoned Pro Location: Calderbank Registered: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 6,496 Status: Offline |
Post #70
I used a scaffolding pole as a breaker bar to remove the brake calliper bolts at the front  ________________________________________ Bye bye Sundance Kid |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 02:37
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #71
Ooh nasty! Luckily I picked up a 50cm bar today which did the trick after bathing the car in WD40. I tell you what's more annoying than screwing over your car mind, and that's a meatball falling from your Papa Johns and rolling the entire way across your laptop, leaving a not insignificant tomato trail over your keyboard. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 02:39
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stu
Seasoned Pro  Location: Milton Keynes Registered: 22 Aug 2006 Posts: 5,525 Status: Offline |
Post #72
IMO taking the hub off is not necessary.  As long as you are able to open up the clamp at the base of the strut enough, you should be able to just knock the hub off. No need for spring compressors whilst the struts are still on the car either IMO, leave the compressing bit until you have the strut off the car as it's a lot easier. When I removed mine for the first time all I did was as follows - -Undo droplink from ARB -Undo strut base pinch bolt -Prise strut clamp open with sump plug key on the end of a ratchet -Hammer hub downwards until it comes off the strut (Taking care not to damage anything) -Support hub from underneath so as not to stress connected components and to stop the n/s driveshaft from coming out the 'box -Undo top mount bolts and carefully remove strut assembly from the car As I say, I had never done any suspension work before and doing the above was quite straightforward. As long as you're sensible then you should be fine. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 02:50
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #73
You see that's pretty much what I expected to do, but there's around two inches of strut in the pinch clamp at the bottom, and I can't raise the strut up that far to get it out. The front suspension arm won't drop any lower, so I'm stuck... ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 03:08
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stu
Seasoned Pro Location: Milton Keynes Registered: 22 Aug 2006 Posts: 5,525 Status: Offline |
Post #74
It will drop enough.I got to the same stage with mine, I thought it wasn't possible for it to move down anymore. After someone suggested using the sump plug key to open up the clamp more it did the trick. It took some more persuasion/hammering but it did come off eventually. This is the sump plug key I used, if you're not sure what I mean -  |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 03:35
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owain
Seasoned Pro Location: Essex Registered: 20 May 2009 Posts: 9,185 Status: Offline |
Post #75
I get what you mean, but literally even once I'd undone the strut bolts at the top it wouldn't come down far enough, believe me I tried! I even had a crowbar holding it apart whilst hammering with the other hand. Unless maybe some balljoint or bush is knackered somewhere, I guess I'll find out when I do the other one. ________________________________________ Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project. |
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Posted 4th Jun 2010 at 03:44
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