displaying posts 1 to 19 of 19

Author Subject: Drill out or not?
richie_25

Regular

Location: Aberdeen

Registered: 27 Oct 2005

Posts: 326

Status: Offline

Post #1
As above im wondering should I just drill out the little bolt that holds the disk in place once the wheel bolts are out? They are solid and ive already broken a T30 trying to loosen them but they just wont budge.

I guess the lifetime warranty on my Halfords socket set will be used sooner than I thought especially since I just got it on Sunday!
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 20:23
jon kirby

Seasoned Pro

Location: pothole central

Registered: 14 Jan 2004

Posts: 7,008

Status: Offline

Post #2
Yes drill it out Wink
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 20:25
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #3
they shouldn't be that tight, though a manual impact driver will help.

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Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 20:25
720puggti

Seasoned Pro

Location: West London

Registered: 18 Jan 2009

Posts: 1,069

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Post #4
I find if you hit them with a hammer they usually crack off with a sharp jolt using using the t30 socket on an extension... I find it's all down to technique rather than power.

________________________________________

Deepak Gohil


Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 20:51
jim01uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: around

Registered: 16 Dec 2005

Posts: 8,996

Status: Offline

Post #5
tried a penetrating fluid on them? or a bit of heat?

I have started using this:



and its f*cking awesome. we have some nuts/bolts etc at work that are 30-40 years old and never been released, this stuff does the trick every time!!
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 20:59
rallyestyle

Seasoned Pro

Location: London

Registered: 23 Jul 2003

Posts: 14,990

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Post #6
Where do you get that from Jim? Looks like it could be very useful to keep in the shed!!

________________________________________

Just Drive It
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:07
jim01uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: around

Registered: 16 Dec 2005

Posts: 8,996

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Post #7
work Whistle
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:21
rallyestyle

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Location: London

Registered: 23 Jul 2003

Posts: 14,990

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Post #8
jim01uk wrote:
work Whistle


Useful Roll eyes Razz

I will have to track some down Yes

________________________________________

Just Drive It
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:26
al4x

Seasoned Pro

Location: Hitchin

Registered: 20 May 2003

Posts: 23,513

Status: Offline

Post #9
surely though making them colder makes them more brittle and prone to snapping
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:29
kezman7

Senior User

Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

Status: Offline

Post #10
Just drill it out, Not really needed just helps abit when fitting wheels to stop the disk moving over the holes
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:29
jim01uk

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Location: around

Registered: 16 Dec 2005

Posts: 8,996

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Post #11
al4x wrote:
surely though making them colder makes them more brittle and prone to snapping


not in our experience! But even if it did in this case, the OP wouldn't have lost anything if he was planning to drill anyway!
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:38
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #12
freezing the fastener quickly shrinks them and breaks the seal of corrosion.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:41
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #13
welshpug! wrote:
freezing the fastener quickly shrinks them and breaks the seal of corrosion.


Same works for localised heating if you have access to some oxy/acetylene cutting gear Wink

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
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Harness bars
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 21:43
richie_25

Regular

Location: Aberdeen

Registered: 27 Oct 2005

Posts: 326

Status: Offline

Post #14
Well in the end I just drilled it out. However it seems that was just the start of my problems! The slider bolt heads are so corroded that they will not release either and the 13mm socket and spanner just turns on it. Tried a half inch one too but same story. Anyone know any ways I could free these? Maybe a 6 sided socket rather than a 12 would help?
I did try taking the whole caliper off but when I fit the new pads and disks there simply isnt enough room for everything so I reckon the sliders need freed so I have a bit more space to get everything on again Sad

This day has been one problem after another, im off to have a beer I think (certainly dont need to worry about driving the car!)
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 22:40
jim01uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: around

Registered: 16 Dec 2005

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Post #15
I'd probably try gripping the heads with mole grips as they shouldn't really be that tight, other than the corrosion. 35FtLb with threadlock on.
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 22:52
smighall

Smeg-all

Location: b*tching and Whinging

Registered: 03 Mar 2005

Posts: 10,012

Status: Offline

Post #16
You are putting a 17mm spanner on the slider part aswell as just the 13mm bolt aren't you?

________________________________________

Meh

Seat Leon Cupra FR / 306 GTI6 / Breaking 205 GTI6 / Caterham 7 / Mercedes Sprinter 311CDI LWB

Sold: Fisher Fury - Laguna DCI Estate - P1 306 XSI - E30 BMW 325i Baur Convertible - Daihatsu Fourtack - Suzuki GSXR600 - 205 Rallye
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 22:54
richie_25

Regular

Location: Aberdeen

Registered: 27 Oct 2005

Posts: 326

Status: Offline

Post #17
smighall wrote:
You are putting a 17mm spanner on the slider part aswell as just the 13mm bolt aren't you?


Using Welly's FAQ it seems its not necessary until the bolt actually starts moving. The only movement is the socket or spanner rounding it off. Might thump a 12mm on and use that, unfortunately both sliders are the same and I have a fair idea the other side of the car will also be the same too. Grr.
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 23:02
smighall

Smeg-all

Location: b*tching and Whinging

Registered: 03 Mar 2005

Posts: 10,012

Status: Offline

Post #18
You may be able to cheat a little, if the 13mm is rounding off, give the 17mm a thump on the spanner, may well be enough to break the theadlock / corrosion etc.

________________________________________

Meh

Seat Leon Cupra FR / 306 GTI6 / Breaking 205 GTI6 / Caterham 7 / Mercedes Sprinter 311CDI LWB

Sold: Fisher Fury - Laguna DCI Estate - P1 306 XSI - E30 BMW 325i Baur Convertible - Daihatsu Fourtack - Suzuki GSXR600 - 205 Rallye
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 23:05
buzzbrightyear

Seasoned Pro

Location: hiding all receipts for car

Registered: 09 Jul 2008

Posts: 11,901

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Post #19
i use a impact driver on them little disc screws. i havent had a problem removing any since i got it years ago.

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 22nd Feb 2010 at 23:25

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