displaying posts 26 to 45 of 45

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Author Subject: Yet another tapper/ticker...
davedgti6

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Post #26
the oil that rich recommends is royal purple, which is 20w50 i believe, mobil do a 15w50 oil too (fully synthetic)

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Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 01:18
monkgti

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Post #27
if the problem with me and joshys cars only seems to happen when the cars are warm would we be better getting just an oil that doesnt thin as much at a high temp then as in a 10w50 or somthing like that no?

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Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 01:20
ballys16

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Post #28
monkgti wrote:
if the problem with me and joshys cars only seems to happen when the cars are warm would we be better getting just an oil that doesnt thin as much at a high temp then as in a 10w50 or somthing like that no?


If the prob is definitely oil thinning out at high temps, then yes.
I used Castrol 10W60 RS in my Civic VTi - but that did have its problems, getting "burnt" rather quickly.

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XSi 8V -> S16
Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 01:36
monkgti

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Post #29
ah well i wouldnt call that having a problem, id just call that being a honda LOL !!! yeah but seriously yah it does just seem to happen when hot its never in it when cold or even slightly warm, so which would you recommend...10w50 or 10w60??

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Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 01:44
ballys16

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Post #30
monkgti wrote:
ah well i wouldnt call that having a problem, id just call that being a honda LOL !!! yeah but seriously yah it does just seem to happen when hot its never in it when cold or even slightly warm, so which would you recommend...10w50 or 10w60??


LOL
Although I must say that burn in this case did not mean disappear, but really get a "tan" Smile
10W60 would endure higher temperatures.

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XSi 8V -> S16
Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 01:49
monkgti

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Post #31
i might be doing an oil change tomorrow if its fine so ill try and get some 10w60 so!! one more thing, is there actually any downside to using 10w60 instead of the 10w40??

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Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 02:20
ballys16

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Post #32
monkgti wrote:
i might be doing an oil change tomorrow if its fine so ill try and get some 10w60 so!! one more thing, is there actually any downside to using 10w60 instead of the 10w40??


10W40 and 10W60 should have the same cold characteristics (density) while the 60 grade oil should have a higher kinematic viscosity at 100C (and if both are the same type of oil, synth or semi synth)

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Posted 16th Nov 2009 at 03:16
toby

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Post #33
Very interesting this, I have exactly the same issue with a friends car, car starts and is quiet but as it warms up the tapping appears, putting a screwdriver to the rocker cover and my ear I can locate the valve/tappet making the noise. As it gets hotter it gets a little more noisy.
He's just changed the engine oil which already looked clean but it now has some fully sythnthetic in it and its made no difference. It could be the hydraulic tappets where one is a bit worn but first I'm going to do a compression test on it, if there is a bent valve it should show up as low compression, I'll let you know how i get on.

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Posted 17th Nov 2009 at 19:38
toby

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Post #34
Ok, I've performed a compression test and it shows 170-180 on 3 cylinders but its down to 90 on the other one which pretty much points to a slightly bent valve, it wouldn't need to be much either to give that reading.
I had a look at all spark plugs and all appear exactly the same as though its burning the same in each cylinder. Tick over is fine and it performs well but I presume if measured it would be a bit down on power.

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Posted 17th Nov 2009 at 14:57
pete-gti

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Post #35
bent valves tap straight from cold ive always been told !
Posted 18th Nov 2009 at 02:57
toby

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Post #36
They do tap from cold but more so when warmed up and temperatures have expanded metal parts, of course it also depends on how bent the valve is.

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Posted 18th Nov 2009 at 03:59
cress87

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Post #37
Rich E wrote:
chas wrote:
Maybe I'm wrong but I'd personally have said that 0W40 is too think, with 5W40 being a better alternative.

Roll eyes

You are wrong Yes

At temperatures you will encounter in the UK they are exactly the same thickness. The only difference is that the 0W-40 remains pourable at a colder temperature than the 5W-40.


Everyone seems to have ignored what Rich said. The 40 part relates to it's viscosity at operating temperature. At operating temperature, a 0W/40 will be very similar in viscosity to a 10W/40. The difference is at low temperatures where the 0W/40 will be thinner than the 10W/40. At low temperatures, the 0W/40 will still be thicker than the 10W/40 at operating temperature so I can't see how it's too thin.

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Posted 18th Nov 2009 at 04:10
ballys16

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Post #38
joshy wrote:
Thanks for the reply!

It's odd, I saw the videos the other day and I'm still convinced mine sounds more 'tinny' than yours did, but the guy who did the conversion has just come back to me saying that he thinks it's bent valves on the inlet side. Sort of shoots my hopes it was loose spark plugs out of the sky LOL.

Correct my ignorance, but is there any reason I could not simply only replace the bent valves, rather than doing a rebuild (other than the obvious, you should do it whilst you're in the area)?


Here is what mine sounds like - and it worries me a bit... mech said its a typical Pug sound. Dunno.

Klikk

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XSi 8V -> S16
Posted 18th Nov 2009 at 21:35
pete-gti

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Post #39
Let Us no if you find out !
Posted 19th Nov 2009 at 00:32
chas

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Post #40
cress87 wrote:
Rich E wrote:
chas wrote:
Maybe I'm wrong but I'd personally have said that 0W40 is too think, with 5W40 being a better alternative.

Roll eyes

You are wrong Yes

At temperatures you will encounter in the UK they are exactly the same thickness. The only difference is that the 0W-40 remains pourable at a colder temperature than the 5W-40.


Everyone seems to have ignored what Rich said. The 40 part relates to it's viscosity at operating temperature. At operating temperature, a 0W/40 will be very similar in viscosity to a 10W/40. The difference is at low temperatures where the 0W/40 will be thinner than the 10W/40. At low temperatures, the 0W/40 will still be thicker than the 10W/40 at operating temperature so I can't see how it's too thin.


At operating temperature yes they will both be the same since they are both xW40.

I am referring from when it is cold where 0 is very thin compared to a 10 or 15 weight oil, say from when the car is first started up.

Hell, 0W40 is even deemed a bit thin for the new Ford Duratec engines, an engine with closer tolerances than any of the XU range of engines.

I'll agree to disagree on this one Smile.

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1974 Triumph Stag
1989 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6
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Posted 19th Nov 2009 at 03:05
joshy

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Post #41
toby wrote:
Ok, I've performed a compression test and it shows 170-180 on 3 cylinders but its down to 90 on the other one which pretty much points to a slightly bent valve, it wouldn't need to be much either to give that reading.
I had a look at all spark plugs and all appear exactly the same as though its burning the same in each cylinder. Tick over is fine and it performs well but I presume if measured it would be a bit down on power.


Damn, that is a shocking figure. You've actually got me worried that compression could be down that much.

I've always thought my car was a bit lacking for power down low (Sub 4krpm), but I always thought those were the dues of revy 16v engine as there is more than enough power 4k+.

So Gentlemen, I get paid later in the week, so what do you recommend the plan of action to be? Oil change + plugs tighten/change?

I'm finding this 0 - 40W discussion very interesting. I've always heard that thin oils could cause havoc with seals causing leaks and so fourth?

The option of Mobil 1 is there, but equally I'd be happen to fork out for something a lot thicker out of my own pocket.
Posted 20th Nov 2009 at 23:45
pete-gti

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Post #42
im using mobile 0-40w fully syn on my sc6 , used it last year , then went to semi syn , now back on this again , had no problems , engine gets to fully working temp alot quicker ! ideal for winter oil i say
Posted 21st Nov 2009 at 02:04
monkgti

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Post #43
going to service the car today or tomorrow, went to the auto factors to see what oil they had close to what i want, valvoline vr1 racing 10w60,its 50 euro, anybody ever use this? hopfully it will sort my problem

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Posted 30th Nov 2009 at 18:26
chrisrobbo

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Registered: 04 Mar 2009

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Post #44
I use 0-40 mobil 1 and its the best oil i have used. Good quality fully synthetic will save your engine if it overheats and you stop intime!

Best too match it to your engine realy. My s16 will run near 7bar when cold which is scary high and mean i have to drive it dead carefully till up to temp. Then it will sit at 3bar when hot under idle.

If you have an engine thats tired then change the grade, a short term fix. If your 6 engine cant hack 0-40 then it aint right to start off with.

Oil pressure and temperature gauges are worth there weight in gold. If you have ever built your own engine and raced it you'll know what i mean as a drop in oil pressure will send a cold chill down your spine! lol.


Posted 30th Nov 2009 at 23:20
monkgti

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Post #45
well she was grand on the 10w40, serviced her today and hasnt used 1 drop in 5,000miles, its just the slight tapping when hot that made me try the 10w60 as it should be better than the 40 when hot...........ill let ye know how it goes soon anyway

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IF YOU CAN READ THIS IM STILL IN 5TH!!!
Posted 1st Dec 2009 at 00:23

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