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Author Subject: Tappy or ticking Engine
bullterrier

Newbie

Location: The Hague

Registered: 24 Aug 2009

Posts: 3

Status: Offline

Post #1
Hi guys,

I've got myself a gti-6 3 months ago, i bought it with a ticking/tapping sound. seller told me it was a lifter that was not working correctly and it needed to be replaced. i got 1500,- of the original price because of it.

I brought it to a local engine rebuilder and he replaced all the lifters for me, he found out the crankshaft pulley was not correct when trying to time it up again, it had slid on the rubber so he replaced that as well. when he was done he started the engine and he heard the ticking again. Now he took of the head , rebuild it, replaced the bend valves and bearings of the (i think) crankshaft.

Now when i start it, it runs fine when cold, but after about 3 minutes when i hit the clutch it starts to tick slightly but after a while as the engine gets warmer the ticking gets louder and sounds like a diesel. weird thing is that it's there when it gets warm and when it's cold i can hear it slightly when i put my foot on the clutch (pushing it down) and when i give just a little bit of gas. when it gets warm, the ticking is there all the time.

I went to another mechanic and he told me it could be another faulty lifter. but i just don't know what to do, i spend quit a bit already and it's still not gone. therefore i've searched through this forum and can't really get an clear answer, but i do notice there are some specialists on here, while i can't find any in Holland. i hope my english is well enough for you to understand what is going on. i love the car, i think it's the best looking hot hatch ever made. but it makes me look like a fool when it sounds like an old diesel.Sad

Thanks in advance.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 23:58
mechanical_repairs

Seasoned Pro

Location: leicester

Registered: 10 Jan 2005

Posts: 12,122

Status: Offline

Post #2
I would say the original fault was a damaged valve and replacing the genuine lifters for some aftermarket ones is now the problem as the aftermarket lifters are not very good at all.

Try and get hold of the original set and refit them. If thats not the cure the head may well need to be removed again.

Carl

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Posted 25th Aug 2009 at 00:15
bullterrier

Newbie

Location: The Hague

Registered: 24 Aug 2009

Posts: 3

Status: Offline

Post #3
That's what the other mecanic was saying also. Also at first, the ticking came from the most left cilinder, now it comes from the 2 to the right.
Thanks for the reply, i've read a lot of your posts and you are one of the experts i was reffering to.. thanks again.

i'm going back to the rebuilder tommorow and i'll ask him to replace the lifters with originals. i just want the damn noise to go..
Posted 25th Aug 2009 at 00:44
aaron6

Seasoned Pro

Location: On the sofa in maidstone

Registered: 16 May 2006

Posts: 5,840

Status: Offline

Post #4
Why replace the crank pulley? Aint you supposed to time the bottom by using a hole in the gear box housing which locks up the flywheel in the correct position? This cannot slip and therefore wont risk being a little out on the timing.Isnt it also possible the bloke who rebuilt it nicked a valve when refitting the head meaning there is still at least 1 bent valve in there?Smile

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Posted 26th Aug 2009 at 14:03
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #5
aaron6 wrote:
Why replace the crank pulley? Aint you supposed to time the bottom by using a hole in the gear box housing which locks up the flywheel in the correct position? This cannot slip and therefore wont risk being a little out on the timing.Isnt it also possible the bloke who rebuilt it nicked a valve when refitting the head meaning there is still at least 1 bent valve in there?Smile


The XU10J4RS engine requires you to time the engine from the cambelt end Aaron, not the flywheel locking hole as is apparant on other XU and TU engines. Yes

The holes/dimples in the flywheel of the '6' engine are there for balancing, you can't time off them...No

Stan.

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 26th Aug 2009 at 16:23
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,838

Status: Offline

Post #6
its only the XUD and TU that you time up with the flywheel, no XU is timed up with the fly.

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Posted 26th Aug 2009 at 16:37
aaron6

Seasoned Pro

Location: On the sofa in maidstone

Registered: 16 May 2006

Posts: 5,840

Status: Offline

Post #7
Fair enough. Im sure i watched someone do that to a 6 lump. My bad. Just out of interest though, how would they balance using that hole in the flywheel? Smile

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Posted 26th Aug 2009 at 17:54
darrellspeed

Senior User

Location: Exeter

Registered: 01 Jul 2008

Posts: 814

Status: Offline

Post #8
they wouldnt balance it with gearbox on anyway.

back on topic did the original mechanic replace all the valves? or just the ones he thought were bent, cos these can be ever so slightly bent and not be apparent on a quick check, some mechanics only replace the obvious ones when really there are more bant valves in there. valves aren't expensive so it makes sense to change themn all to be on the safe side.

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Posted 26th Aug 2009 at 20:30
bullterrier

Newbie

Location: The Hague

Registered: 24 Aug 2009

Posts: 3

Status: Offline

Post #9
darrellspeed wrote:
they wouldnt balance it with gearbox on anyway.

back on topic did the original mechanic replace all the valves? or just the ones he thought were bent, cos these can be ever so slightly bent and not be apparent on a quick check, some mechanics only replace the obvious ones when really there are more bant valves in there. valves aren't expensive so it makes sense to change themn all to be on the safe side.


He replaced four valves, He checked them with some special tool, he showed me the ones that where bend and i could'nt see they were bend.
It's a proffesional local rebuilder, he does rebuilds for local garages. he's no sloutch but if i were to live in england i would have done the Carl deal. I just can't find a specialist in Holland.

He now wants to put in 15W40 and a new filter first, if that does not help he will replace the lifters with the original ones..

The weird thing is when i start it cold in the morning, the engine seems to run smooth (no sounds) after a minute or 2 it starts making squeeky (like the brake disc is going slightly against the brake block)sounds when i hit the clutch pedal and also when i'm in gear and give little to no gas (to keep the same speed), put on more gas it's gone, release the gas it's also gone. also when i release the clutch it's gone (it's only there when i press it). It goes in the same rythem as the ticking or tapping. When the engine is warmed up the squeeking is gone over into the ticking or tapping (i don't know the difference, so i keep using both) and gets louder the longer i drive.. Crazy

Thank you for all your replies guys.
Posted 27th Aug 2009 at 22:58
black_6_stirling

Senior User

Location: Stirling

Registered: 08 Jun 2007

Posts: 741

Status: Offline

Post #10
you should have asked on here for advice first,mech repairs would have done an exchange head for you.

I bet you would have saved alot of time and money

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Posted 27th Aug 2009 at 23:58

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