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Author Subject: Immobilizer problem
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #1
Right i have spent the best part of 5 hours messing with the wiring and earths and now know its an earth to the body i have a problem with, bypassed this with a jump lead for now but other problem im having is it wont fire just turn over.

The big red button keeps popping up when the earth comes loss.(easy fix with a proper earth)

Can anyone tell me how to bypass the immobaliser(PM oviasly)i have 2 keys for the key, the one i got with the shell and one i got with the engine, i have put both the chips into one key as i dont know which one i would need, Could this cause any conflictions or should this be ok??

Also theres fuel coming from the green pipe pictured but not sure which pipe is feed and which is return,



Thanks
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:13
gti-si

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 29 May 2008

Posts: 228

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Post #2
Right, so to get it straight. You've put a new engine in your shell yes?

Firstly, are you using the ECU from the original engine or the new engine? If your using the ECU that came with the engine, you will obviously need the chip for the key and the transponder (black immobiliser box).

Have you swapped this over? You can't just bypass this system im afraid, it just won't work.

The fuel pipe you have pictured is the Return.

________________________________________

1990 Cherry Red 205 Gti-6
2000 Mitsubishi Galant V6
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 01:50
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

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Post #3
I have the ecu from the new engine. And chip. Where is the black box located? I have a spare small black box but not sure where it goes. Ok so fuel should be going thought
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 14:55
kezman7

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Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #4
Just realised i do have a small black box spare that came with the engine sand also theres a plug with a red clip thing on but i dont have anything that plugs onto this??
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 06:10
gti-si

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 29 May 2008

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Post #5
Pot pics, sounds like the relay to me. Whats the details of the swap? Was it a '6 to begin with?

If your car is the right phase the immobiliser is under the offside rear wheelarch? I think? I don't have a 6 but it's in that area.

Basically, remove the chip from the shell, its of no use, its dependant on the ECU. You then need to replace the immobiliser box with the one that came with the engine. So you will have a matched key trnasponder, ECU and Immboliier.

That should get your ECU up and running. Post a pic of your plug and the black box. I would gues lambda or relay module plug, but cant say without a pic

________________________________________

1990 Cherry Red 205 Gti-6
2000 Mitsubishi Galant V6
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 06:17
birk

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Location: Doncaster

Registered: 24 Oct 2005

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Post #6
I say the ecu is locked.

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Dan
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 07:22
kezman7

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Post #7
Ok will get pics today, the ECU came with the engine and loom all still plugged in from the previous car so i thought it should be ok

Its gone into a 1.8 shell
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 14:54
gti-si

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Registered: 29 May 2008

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Post #8
No, as birk says, without the correct immobiliser box it will remain locked

________________________________________

1990 Cherry Red 205 Gti-6
2000 Mitsubishi Galant V6
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 17:02
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #9
Oh right i see,

I got this also with the engine but not sure where it goes?




And also this plug but the box above does not fit to what should go here? Am i right that this is for the lambda sensor?


Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 22:47
dan_s16

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Location: Cheltenham

Registered: 22 Jan 2005

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Post #10
The plug with the red latch on it is for the lambda yes.

The black box is the immbobiliser ecu which is connected under the bottom of the dash (above the airbag ecu). There is a little panel which pops out of the bottom of the dash with the box clipped to it, you need to swap it over and fit the right chip in to the key (only one of them).

________________________________________

When I've got time I forget what I wanted to do, and when I remember what I wanted to do, I have no time!
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 23:08
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #11
I have removed the any under the dash and there a large black clip and a yellow one same as on the back of the speedo clocks. The box is all one and the one that I have pictured above does not fit either connection
Posted 23rd Aug 2009 at 23:44
kezman7

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Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #12
The box that was already plugged in is the one with the yellow plug and the small one that i have is pic next to it.


Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:03
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

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Post #13
Could your loom be a phase 1 for keypad immobiliser?

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:05
kezman7

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Post #14
I wouldnt have thought so a its always been a 'W' Reg 1.8 afaik and the engine was removed from a 'R' reg i think
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:06
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

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Post #15
Phase 2 and 3 alarms are different so the immobilisers could be too.

EDIT:

I have just looked on Service Box. Phase 2 have small box with one plug. Phase 3 have large box with two plugs.

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:15
dan_s16

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Location: Cheltenham

Registered: 22 Jan 2005

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Post #16
Yeah thats a phase 3 alarm and immobiliser ecu (built into the same unit). the other black box is for a phase 2 I think the only way your gonna get round this is to have the ecu unlocked and then cut the pins to stop it being relocked.

________________________________________

When I've got time I forget what I wanted to do, and when I remember what I wanted to do, I have no time!
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:18
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

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Post #17
Hmm any idea of which pins to cut and you mean cut them on the black box or the ECU? How would i go about unlocking the ECU?

Im less than even beginner level with electrics so this is totally mind boggling to me
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:23
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

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Post #18
You need to get the ECU professionally unlocked before you cut the pins.

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:38
kezman7

Senior User

Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

Status: Offline

Post #19
Ok can i just get any unlocked ECU? or does it need to be this specific one? Sure someone on here was doing an exchange thing
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:45
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

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Post #20
Yes, any unlocked ECU, but make sure professionally done so does not re-lock when plugged back in.

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 00:54
kezman7

Senior User

Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

Status: Offline

Post #21
What would i need to check before i refit it to make sure its not going to re-lock, will the pins be cut when its unlocked or will i still need to do it?

Also which black box do i use, do i need to stick with the 2 plug one that was already there?
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 01:01
kezman7

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Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

Status: Offline

Post #22
Took this from another thread, If i unplug mine while the ignitions on will this unlock it.

rich_w wrote:
You need to unplug the ECU either when the ignition is on, or the engine is running.

You then need to cut pins 27 and 48 on the 55 pin connector inside the ECU.

Why are you buying a new ECU if yours is working etc and you want to unlock it and sell it on?

Unsure
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 01:05
dan_s16

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Location: Cheltenham

Registered: 22 Jan 2005

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Post #23
No you will need to find someone with a phase 2 six or rallye that you can plug your ecu into, swap the immobiliser ecu over to the phase 2 one you have and put your chip in their key, then start the car and unplug the ecu and cut the pins above. then put all of their ecu etc back in, your ecu should then be unlocked. it's either that or send it off to get unlocked somewhere.

________________________________________

When I've got time I forget what I wanted to do, and when I remember what I wanted to do, I have no time!
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 01:12
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

Posts: 2,769

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Post #24
If you have the correct key and immibilizer chip, just use that. If you don't, get the ECU unlocked and cut these pins if the unlocker doesn't do it for you.

Once permenanty unlocked, the immobilizer module won't be needed anymore.

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 01:14
kezman7

Senior User

Location: Castleford

Registered: 20 Feb 2009

Posts: 762

Status: Offline

Post #25
I do the have key and chip
Posted 24th Aug 2009 at 01:15

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