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Home -> Forums -> Engines -> 136 > 137-teeth cambelt: Tensioner Setup

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Author Subject: 136 > 137-teeth cambelt: Tensioner Setup
sehr_gut

Newbie

Location: HONG KONG

Registered: 16 Jan 2009

Posts: 17

Status: Offline
Post #1
Hi all,
I'm replacing cambelt of my '98 with the 137-teeth cambelt with the adjustable tensioner. However I have a hard time setting up the tensioner correctly. Anyone know how to do it? Tried following the FAQ but the pointer refuses to move lower than the little hole for the lock-pin. When turning the crank, the pointer will drop momentarily from the "notch" position down to near the hole before returning to "notch" during compression stroke. Don't want to take risk as it is nearly impossible to find a replacement engine here in Hong Kong! Please help!!!

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Posted 11th Aug 2009 at 19:11
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davedgti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

Posts: 1,651

Status: Offline
Post #2
Hi, when i did one you tensioned up the belt until the pointer lines up with the notch, this should be done with the engine "pinned" up, you then take the timing pins out then turn the engine over a few times by hand an pin it up again, the pointer should again line up with the notch and all timing pins (crank and cams) should go in ok,

When turning the engine over the pointer does move up and down (this is normal i think) but should return to the notch once timed up,

Smile

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Team Supercharged Gti-6™ Ninja
Posted 11th Aug 2009 at 23:41
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sehr_gut

Newbie

Location: HONG KONG

Registered: 16 Jan 2009

Posts: 17

Status: Offline
Post #3
Hey Dave thanks for the explanation. So there is no tricks on the tensioner installation itself?

When turning the engine the pointer moves up and down then back to the notch indeed. It just worries me a bit seeing the belt becoming a bit loose between spockets when the pointer is at 'down' position with hand still exerting force on crank. Is this normal?

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Posted 12th Aug 2009 at 07:26
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davedgti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

Posts: 1,651

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Post #4
Doesn't sound right to me, the belt shouldn't go slack at all when you turn the engine, did you loosen the camshaft sprockets when you tensioned the belt?,

Also when you tighten the camshaft bolts up when the belt is tensioned you have to be careful that the cams dont turn clockwise as you tighten the bolts, there is a special tool to lock the cams as you tighten the belt (to prevent this) (see the autodata faq) but most get by without using one Smile

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Team Supercharged Gti-6™ Ninja
Posted 13th Aug 2009 at 02:31
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sehr_gut

Newbie

Location: HONG KONG

Registered: 16 Jan 2009

Posts: 17

Status: Offline
Post #5
Hi busy days kept me from it until last night. I've re-done it all over again to make sure I got every step right. It seems better when turning the engine over and all 3 marks align correctly. However, there is still a bit of slack on the belt between the 2 cam spockets. Drove the car for about 25 miles without drama. Recheck in the morning I can pull down the belt by about 10mm midway between the cam spockets with finger-force. Is it correctly set?

I hope it is just mental but it feels slightly less willing to pull than before. Could I miss the correct timing by 1 tooth somewhere at the spockets?
Posted 20th Aug 2009 at 15:38
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chas

Seasoned Pro

Location: Warwickshire

Registered: 31 Oct 2007

Posts: 1,468

Status: Offline
Post #6
Try the twist method. It is meant to flex no more than 75-90 degrees. If it goes more than that, then your belt is too loose (remember, do it with your thumb and index finger_). To check for the tension go between the inlet pulley and the idler.

________________________________________

Ex Owner of 2000 Phase 3 306 GTi 6 China Blue - You shall be missed

1974 Triumph Stag
1989 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6
2003 Alfa Romeo 147 JTD Lusso
2005 Mondeo Ghia X 3.0 Estate LPG
Posted 21st Aug 2009 at 05:37
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gti-si

Regular

Location: Bolton

Registered: 29 May 2008

Posts: 228

Status: Offline
Post #7
If it's the 98' phase 1 right? You did slacken the 3 10mm bolts on each cam sprocket and rotate the sprockets fully clockwise before tensioning the belt yeah?

Or if it's the sporcket with the elongated slot, much the same, rotate them fully clockwise then install the belt, that way when you tenion up the tension between sporcket will be correct

Re the twist method reffered too, thats on the longest run, I.e. between the inlet cam and the idler, not between cams. If you've alot of movement between the cams, it's too loose

Edit: Just re read and it's been covered, sorry Chas

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1990 Cherry Red 205 Gti-6
2000 Mitsubishi Galant V6
Posted 21st Aug 2009 at 06:00
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