I had this problem several years ago and it pops up every now and then and people don't believe me but every time I have been right

Some people have come back to me after spending hundreds at Peugeot when they would not believe me and said they wish they had checked it.

The best case is your dash stays lit...your immobiliser wont immobilise...your fans might come on randomly without the keys in and you might get a flat battery...or the engine may stay running even with the keys out (petrol or diesel)...the worst case is your wiring burns out and goes on fire (what I believe may have happened to Mikes old car).

Winter is VERY hard on car electrical circuits - blower motors, rear window heaters etc etc all put extra load on the electrical supply and snow can get in places water wouldn't as it builds up on the car so moisture travels sideways and rubber seals can become hard and less effective letting in water so it is very important to bare this in mind and remember this:

1. Spend £10-20 on a fire extinguisher suitable for cars and put it somewhere you can get to it but it is not going to cause a hazard. Do not bury it under stuff in the boot.

2. if you get any smoke, burning smells, strange electrical problems - PULL OVER and pull away from the main road. Turn the engine off and investigate.

3. If you catch a fire soon enough try and tackle it with a fire extinguisher but know when you are defeated and get well back and do not return to the car. The sooner you call emergency services the sooner there may be some chance of getting your belongings out but even a small car would write off most cars let alone an old one so remember you are more important than a car. The car is pretty much gone anyway.


Back to the electrical fault:

This can happen to any connector but this one is very common due to its position at the front of the car.

The connector is located down the passenger side of the radiator and goes to the fans. The fan side is circled here:



The connection joint is actually on the engine side of the front cross member but you may have to unscrew the air inlet to get decent access.

This connector can, over the years, get water inside and corrode. The longer you leave it the more likely you are to have to cut the whole thing off.

Before you start you should disonnect the battery +ve connector.

To check you need to undo the outer knurled locking ring and then prise it away. Do not pull the wires. Use something to lever the connector if you need to.

You will probably find the connectors are all blue with copper oxide.

If you haven't already (you should have done), disconnect the battery - make sure you have the radio code.

Then clean out the connector with a liberal spraying of switch cleaner (get some from maplins or a hard ware shop).

When it has dried - inspect and be honest - if it is knackered then get a new connector.

When sorted and reconnected and the locking ring is tight then spray around the join with an automotive spray wax or white grease spray to help keep out mositure.

Job done.

Additional info:

I suspect fire was due to this wiring problem: [url]http://www.pug306.net/forum/showthread.php/66572-29-hours-from-purchase-to-write-off!?highlight=snow%2Bfire[/url]





This is the connector (sheers to Ralee21):



To undo grip the lock ring on the full round bit with some water pump pliers - firmly but don't crush it and not the castle bits as they need to deflect around locking tabs.

Then when fully undo just pull apart. When re-assembling make sure it is pushed very well home and then do it up nice and tight to pull it together - loose fitting can cause heat/melting and water to get in.

Well unlike most, mine works